Repair your alloy wheels.

Restoring your alloys doesn't just improve your car's aesthetics; it protects the metal from long-term oxidation and ensures your vehicle remains roadworthy and holds its resale value. From mobile SMART repairs to full workshop refurbishments, understanding the process helps you choose the right service for your wheels.

What Does the Work Involve?

• Initial Inspection: Assessing the wheel for structural integrity, checking for hairline cracks, deep gouges, or "flat spots" caused by impact.
• Tyre Removal: For full refurbishments, the tyre is often de-beaded or removed entirely to ensure the rim edge is fully treated.
• Surface Preparation: Cleaning the wheel in a chemical strip tank (for full refurbs) or sanding down the damaged area to create a smooth base.
• Damage Repair: Filling deep gouges with metal filler or using TIG welding to repair structural cracks and "adding metal" back to the rim.
• Straightening: Using hydraulic presses to remove buckles and flat spots, ensuring the wheel runs true without vibration.
• Refinishing: Applying primer, colour-matched paint, or powder coating, followed by a protective clear lacquer coat.
• Diamond Cutting: Using a precision CNC lathe to remove a thin layer of metal, creating the high-shine "machined" finish common on modern premium cars.

Typical Costs

Prices vary based on wheel size (larger wheels over 19 inches often carry a premium) and the complexity of the finish. Multi-part wheels or bespoke "shadow chrome" finishes will sit at the higher end of the scale, and most providers offer discounts for a full set of four.

How Long Does It Take?

• Mobile Cosmetic Repair: 1–2 hours per wheel. The car is usually ready to drive almost immediately.
• Standard Powder Coating: 24–48 hours. This usually requires leaving the car or the wheels at a dedicated workshop.
• Diamond Cutting: 3–5 working days. This is a precision process that cannot be rushed and is rarely offered as a mobile service.
• Emergency Crack Repair: Same-day service is often possible if the workshop has a dedicated TIG welder on-site.

DIY or Professional?

While DIY "touch-up" kits are available for tiny scratches, they rarely provide a seamless finish and offer little protection against the elements. For diamond-cut wheels or structural issues like cracks and buckles, professional intervention is mandatory for safety reasons.

Structural repairs, such as welding or straightening, must be handled by specialists. An incorrectly welded alloy can shatter under high stress, leading to catastrophic tyre failure at speed.

Choosing the Right Tradesperson

• Check the Equipment: Ask if they have an on-site CNC lathe for diamond-cut wheels or a hydraulic straightening jig.
• Insurance: Ensure the business has motor trade insurance that covers your vehicle while it is in their care or being road-tested.
• Warranty: Look for a 12-month guarantee against paint peeling or lacquer failure.
• Questions to Ask:
  • Do you balance the wheels after the repair is complete?
  • Will you replace the tyre valves and check the TPMS (Tyre Pressure Monitoring System) sensors?
  • Is the repair a "face-fix" or a total strip-back refurbishment?

UK Regulations

• MOT Standards: A cracked, severely distorted, or poorly repaired wheel is an immediate MOT failure.
• BS AU 242b:1991: This is the British Standard for automotive wheel repairs; reputable shops will adhere to these guidelines regarding weld locations and heat treatment.
• TPMS Compliance: Since 2014, functional tyre pressure sensors are an MOT requirement; your technician must ensure these are not damaged during the repair.

Common Problems

• Lacquer Milkiness: Often seen on diamond-cut wheels where water gets under the clear coat, causing white "spider web" corrosion.
• Mismatched Colours: Occurs when only one wheel is repaired without using the manufacturer's specific paint code.
• Hidden Cracks: Cosmetic repairs that mask structural damage can be dangerous; always insist on a pressure test if you’ve hit a significant pothole.
• Vibration After Repair: Usually caused by improper wheel balancing or a buckle that wasn't fully straightened before painting.

Frequently Asked Questions