Repair campervan bodywork.

High-quality bodywork not only keeps your camper looking its best for the summer season but also safeguards its resale value. Given the complexity of modern paint finishes and the structural importance of the outer shell, understanding the repair process is key to a successful restoration.

What Does the Work Involve?

• Initial Assessment: A thorough inspection of the external shell to identify dents, rust, "aluminium rot," or delamination. This often includes moisture testing around seals to check for hidden water ingress.
• Surface Preparation: Cutting out corroded metal, grinding back rust to bare steel, or prepping fibreglass/aluminium surfaces. This stage is critical for ensuring the longevity of the repair.
• Structural Repairs: Welding in fresh metal patches for steel vans or carrying out specialist composite repairs for coachbuilt motorhomes.
• Panel Beating and Filling: Pulling out dents where possible to minimise filler use. Remaining imperfections are filled with high-quality automotive stoppers, sanded flush, and primed.
• Sealing and Waterproofing: Removing old, degraded mastic and applying fresh marine-grade sealants to window frames, roof joints, and trim rails.
• Refinishing: Colour-matching the existing paintwork using a spectrometer and applying base coats and clear coats in a controlled spray booth to ensure a seamless blend.

Typical Costs

The cost of campervan bodywork varies significantly depending on the material of the vehicle (steel, aluminium, or GRP) and the extent of the damage. Prices below include VAT and reflect 2025/26 UK averages for professional workshop rates.

Labour rates typically range from £65 to £110 per hour. Specialist materials like metallic paints, high-modulus sealants, and bespoke body panels will drive costs toward the higher end of the scale.

How Long Does It Take?

• Minor cosmetic repairs: 1–2 days (including paint curing time).
• Rust remediation and welding: 3–5 days, depending on the severity and accessibility of the area.
• Full panel replacement or resealing: 2–4 days to allow for adhesive bonding and sealant skinning.
• Full respray or restoration: 2–4 weeks, as this requires extensive stripping of components and multiple stages of flatting and polishing.

DIY or Professional?

While basic "touch-up" kits are fine for stone chips, structural bodywork should be left to professionals. Modern campervans use complex bonding agents and thin-gauge metals that are easily warped by amateur welding. Furthermore, achieving a professional paint finish outdoors is nearly impossible due to dust, moisture, and temperature fluctuations.

Note: If the repair involves structural areas within 30cm of a mounting point (like seatbelts or suspension), the work must meet strict MOT standards to ensure the vehicle remains roadworthy.

Choosing the Right Tradesperson

Not all local body shops are equipped to handle large campervans or motorhomes. Look for specialists with high-roof spray booths and experience in leisure vehicle construction.

• Check Qualifications: Look for ATA (Automotive Technician Accreditation) or VBRA (Vehicle Body Repairers Association) membership.
• Verify Experience: Ask specifically if they have worked on your vehicle type (e.g., VW Transporter, Fiat Ducato, or coachbuilt GRP bodies).
• Inspect the Facilities: Ensure they have a dedicated, dust-free spray booth large enough for a high-top van.
• Questions to Ask:
  • Do you offer a warranty on paint adhesion and rust recurrence?
  • Will you provide a photographic record of the metalwork before filler is applied?
  • How do you ensure an accurate colour match on aged or faded paint?
  • Are interior fittings protected from grinding dust and paint overspray?

UK Regulations

• MOT Standards (Section 6): Bodywork must not have sharp edges or structural corrosion that compromises the safety of the vehicle or its occupants.
• Environmental Protection: Professional shops must comply with VOC (Volatile Organic Compounds) regulations regarding paint disposal and emissions.
• Gas & Electric Safety: If bodywork requires removing fridge vents or external hook-up points, these should be tested by a qualified technician upon reinstallation.

Common Problems

• Hidden "Moth-Eaten" Rust: Surface bubbles often hide significant rot underneath. A professional will always cut back to "bright metal" rather than just covering it with filler.
• Poor Colour Matching: Campervan paint fades at different rates depending on sun exposure. A simple paint code match is rarely enough; spectrometer blending is usually required.
• Incompatible Sealants: Using standard silicone on a campervan is a common DIY mistake. It will not bond correctly to the paint and will eventually cause leaks and corrosion.
• Over-filling: Excessive use of body filler (bondo) will eventually crack and fall out due to the vibrations and chassis flex common in campervans.

Frequently Asked Questions