Garden planting advice

Successful planting involves more than just digging a hole; it requires an understanding of soil pH, drainage, and light levels. By hiring a skilled gardener, you avoid the common pitfall of "the right plant in the wrong place," which often leads to expensive losses and stunted growth.

What Does the Work Involve?

• Site Assessment: Evaluating soil type (clay, sand, loam), pH levels, aspect (north/south facing), and existing drainage.
• Soil Preparation: Clearing weeds, stones, and debris, followed by digging in organic matter like well-rotted manure or compost.
• Setting Out: Placing pots in their designated spots to check spacing, heights, and visual impact before any digging begins.
• Planting: Excavating holes to the correct depth, teasing out roots, and backfilling with a mix of soil and fertilizer.
• Structural Support: Installing stakes for young trees or trellises for climbing plants to ensure stability during the establishment phase.
• Aftercare & Mulching: Applying a layer of bark or compost to retain moisture and suppress weeds, followed by a thorough initial watering.
• Waste Removal: Clearing plastic pots, labels, and any green waste generated during the preparation phase.

Typical Costs

Total project costs are heavily influenced by the maturity of the plants you choose. While "instant gardens" using mature shrubs provide immediate impact, they carry a significantly higher price tag and require more intensive watering than younger, smaller specimens.

Always clarify if your quote includes the cost of the plants themselves or just the labour and soil conditioners. Many gardeners charge a sourcing fee to hand-pick quality stock from trade nurseries.

How Long Does It Take?

• Small Border Refresh: 2–4 hours for clearing and planting a 5-metre run.
• Medium Multi-Bed Scheme: 1 full day for a team of two gardeners.
• Large Garden Overhaul: 2–4 days, depending on the volume of soil preparation and tree staking required.
• Hedge Planting: 1 day per 10–15 metres for bare-root or root-ball hedging.

DIY or Professional?

While basic planting is a popular DIY task, professional gardeners bring horticultural expertise that ensures long-term survival. Professionals know how to handle delicate root balls, the correct depth for various species, and how to spot signs of pests or diseases in nursery stock.

For large-scale projects or expensive specimen trees, professional installation is highly recommended. Many gardeners offer a "failure guarantee" (e.g., replacing plants that die within the first six months) only if they have performed the planting and soil preparation themselves.

Choosing the Right Tradesperson

• Qualifications: Look for RHS (Royal Horticultural Society) Level 2 or 3, or LANTRA awards.
• Portfolio: Ask to see photos of borders they planted 2–3 years ago to see how the schemes have matured.
• Specialisms: Some gardeners focus on maintenance (mowing/weeding), while others are skilled "plantsmen" who understand complex design schemes.
• Insurance: Ensure they have Public Liability insurance, especially if they are using machinery or working near glass structures.

Questions to ask:

• Do you source plants from local trade nurseries or retail centres?
• What is your policy if a plant fails to thrive within the first season?
• Does your quote include the removal of all plastic pots and labels?
• Will you provide a basic watering and maintenance schedule for me to follow?

UK Regulations

• Tree Preservation Orders (TPOs): You must check if any existing trees are protected before clearing a site for new planting.
• Conservation Areas: Specific rules may apply to what you can plant or remove if your home is in a designated conservation zone.
• Invasive Species: It is illegal to plant or cause certain non-native species (like Japanese Knotweed or Giant Hogweed) to grow in the wild.
• Water Regulations: During hosepipe bans, newly planted gardens may have specific exemptions for a limited period—check with your local water provider.

Common Problems

• Poor Drainage: Planting into "sumps" in heavy clay soil leads to root rot; professional gardeners will often "mound" plants or add grit to improve aeration.
• Crowded Spacing: Planting too closely for "instant" impact leads to plants competing for nutrients and light within two years.
• Incorrect Planting Depth: Burying the "flare" of a tree or the crown of a perennial too deep is a leading cause of plant death.
• Neglecting Aftercare: Even the best-planted garden will fail if not watered correctly during its first dry spell in a UK summer.

Frequently Asked Questions

When is the best time of year for garden planting?

Autumn (October to November) is arguably the best time as the soil is warm and moist, allowing roots to establish before winter. Spring (March to April) is also excellent, though you will need to be more diligent with watering as the weather warms up.

Should I buy bare-root or pot-grown plants?

Bare-root plants are cheaper and available in winter (November–March); they are great for hedging and roses. Pot-grown plants can be planted year-round but are more expensive and require more water if planted in summer.

Do gardeners provide a warranty on plants?

Many professional gardeners offer a 6–12 month guarantee on the plants they supply and install, provided you follow their watering instructions. Always get this agreement in writing.

Will the gardener test my soil pH?

Most qualified gardeners will perform a basic pH test or a "ribbon test" for soil texture as part of their initial assessment. This ensures they don't plant acid-loving plants (like Camellias) in alkaline soil.

Do I need to be home while the work is done?

As long as the gardener has access to the garden and a water supply (outside tap), you typically do not need to be present. However, it is helpful to be there for the initial "setting out" to approve the layout.