Wire trunking \\u000aHallway painting

For UK homeowners, this job is often paired with a hallway refresh. Once the trunking is securely fitted, a professional finish requires careful filling, sanding, and a full repaint to ensure the new conduit blends seamlessly into your décor. This guide covers the costs and considerations for a professional hallway cable management and painting project.

What Does the Work Involve?

• Site Survey: Assessing the existing cable runs (fibre, Ethernet, or power) and identifying the most discreet route along skirting boards or coving.
• Surface Preparation: Cleaning the walls and removing any old, loose cable clips or failing adhesive.
• Installation: Cutting PVC or decorative D-Line trunking to size, including precise mitre cuts for corners and bends.
• Securing Cables: Laying the wires inside the trunking and snapping the lid into place, ensuring no cables are pinched.
• Wall Repair: Filling holes left by old clips and sanding the surface back to a smooth finish.
• Painting: Applying a primer (specifically for plastic if the trunking is being painted) followed by two coats of emulsion to the walls and trunking.

Typical Costs

Prices vary based on the length of the hallway and whether you are using standard square trunking or more expensive decorative profiles. All prices below include VAT and reflect 2025/26 UK averages.

The primary cost drivers are the condition of the existing walls and the choice of paint. If the hallway has high ceilings requiring scaffolding towers, expect to add £100–£150 to the labour and equipment costs.

How Long Does It Take?

• Small Hallway (Trunking only): 2–3 hours. A simple run along one wall with minimal corners.
• Standard Hallway (Trunking + Painting): 1–2 days. This allows for drying time between filler, primer, and topcoats.
• Large/Complex Hallway: 2–3 days. If multiple doorways, stairs, or high-level cabling are involved.

DIY or Professional?

Fitting trunking is a manageable DIY task for those with a mitre saw and a steady hand. However, achieving a "hidden" look requires professional-grade filling and painting. If the work involves moving 230V electrical sockets, you must hire a qualified electrician to comply with UK Building Regulations. For data cables (Virgin Media, BT, or Ethernet), a skilled handyman or decorator is usually sufficient.

Note: Never attempt to cut or join live electrical cables yourself. Always isolate the circuit at the consumer unit before disturbing any fixed wiring.

Choosing the Right Tradesperson

• Check Qualifications: If electrical work is required, ensure they are registered with a competent person scheme like NICEIC or NAPIT.
• Review Portfolios: Look for photos of "internal corners" and "joins" in their previous trunking work; this is where poor workmanship shows.
• Red Flags: Be wary of anyone suggesting "tacking" cables over the top of wallpaper or using cheap masking tape instead of proper filler.

Questions to ask:

• Do you use adhesive-backed trunking, or will you screw it into the wall for extra security?
• Will you use a specialist primer on the plastic trunking to prevent the paint from peeling?
• Is the paint included in the quote, or should I provide my own?
• How do you handle cables that are too short to reach the new trunking route?

UK Regulations

• Part P (Electrical Safety): Applies if you are modifying the circuit or moving sockets. A certificate may be required.
• BS 7671 (Wiring Regs): Covers the safe containment of cables, ensuring they are protected from sharp edges and heat.
• Data/Power Separation: Best practice dictates that mains power cables and data cables (cat6) should ideally be separated to prevent interference, though this is less critical in domestic settings than in commercial ones.

Common Problems

• Adhesive Failure: Cheap trunking tape often fails in humid hallways or on cold external walls. Professional installers use a combination of adhesive and mechanical fixings (screws).
• Paint Peeling: Emulsion will not stick to bare PVC for long. The trunking must be lightly sanded and primed with a multi-surface primer first.
• Poor Mitres: Gaps at the corners look amateur. A pro will use a mitre box for 45-degree cuts or use dedicated corner pieces.
• Overcrowding: Forcing too many cables into small trunking makes it impossible to snap the lid shut and can lead to cable overheating.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can you paint over plastic wire trunking?

Yes, but you cannot apply standard wall emulsion directly. You must first lightly sand the plastic with fine-grit sandpaper and apply a "grip" primer (like Zinsser Bullseye 1-2-3). Once primed, you can use the same emulsion as your walls.

Is it better to use self-adhesive trunking or screws?

Self-adhesive is fine for very light data cables on smooth surfaces. However, for longevity—especially in hallways where people might knock it—screwing the trunking into the wall every 300-500mm is far superior.

What is D-Line trunking?

D-Line is a popular UK brand of decorative trunking with a half-circle profile. It is designed to look like a piece of moulding or skirting, making it much more aesthetically pleasing than standard square industrial trunking.

Do I need an electrician just to hide cables?

If you are simply tucking existing, plugged-in cables (like a lamp or a router) into a plastic box, you do not need an electrician. If you are disconnecting wires from the back of a wall socket, a qualified professional is required.

Will the trunking be visible even after painting?

While trunking is "surface mounted," painting it the exact same colour and sheen as the wall makes it blend in significantly. Using a profile like D-Line at the top of a skirting board makes it look like part of the woodwork.