Lay a brick patio.

Investing in professional bricking ensures your patio remains level and drains correctly, preventing long-term issues like damp or subsidence. Whether you are opting for classic clay paviors or modern concrete blocks, the quality of the groundwork is what determines the longevity of your investment.

What Does the Work Involve?

• Site Survey and Marking: Assessing the area for drainage, identifying underground services, and marking out the perimeter with string lines.
• Excavation: Removing existing turf, soil, or old paving to a depth of approximately 200mm to 250mm to allow for the sub-base.
• Sub-base Installation: Laying a minimum of 100mm–150mm of MOT Type 1 crushed stone, followed by heavy-duty compaction with a vibrating plate.
• Edge Restraints: Installing concrete haunching or heavy-duty edging to prevent the bricks from "spreading" over time.
• Screeding: Spreading and leveling a 30mm–40mm layer of sharp sand to create the final laying course.
• Laying and Cutting: Placing the bricks in the chosen pattern (e.g., herringbone or basketweave) and using a diamond-blade saw for precise border cuts.
• Jointing and Finishing: Sweeping kiln-dried sand into the joints and performing a final compaction to lock the bricks in place.

Typical Costs

Total project costs are heavily influenced by the condition of your existing ground and the accessibility of the site for machinery. For a standard 20m² patio, expect to pay between £2,200 and £3,800 including VAT, depending on the material choice and regional labour rates.

How Long Does It Take?

• Small Patios (up to 12m²): 2–3 days. This allows for one day of excavation and one to two days for laying and finishing.
• Medium Patios (12m² – 25m²): 4–5 days. This is the average size for most UK suburban gardens.
• Large or Complex Projects (25m²+): 7+ days. Complex patterns, curved edges, or significant drainage work will extend the timeline.
• Weather Factors: Heavy rain can halt excavation and prevent jointing sand from settling, potentially adding 1–2 days to any schedule.

DIY or Professional?

While laying the bricks themselves may seem straightforward, the physical demand of excavating several tonnes of earth is often underestimated. Professional installers use heavy machinery like micro-diggers and industrial plate compactors that are essential for a stable finish.

Incorrectly installed patios can lead to water pooling against your house walls, potentially breaching the Damp Proof Course (DPC) and causing expensive internal damage.

If you choose the DIY route, you must ensure you comply with Part M of the Building Regulations regarding threshold heights and SUDS (Sustainable Urban Drainage Systems) to prevent surface water flooding.

Choosing the Right Tradesperson

• Check Accreditations: Look for members of the Marshalls Register of Accredited Landscape Contractors or similar manufacturer-backed schemes.
• Verify Insurance: Ensure they hold Public Liability Insurance of at least £1 million to cover any accidental damage to your property.
• Review Portfolios: Ask for photos of "work in progress" to see the quality of the sub-base, not just the finished surface.
• Red Flags: Be wary of anyone offering a "today only" price or those who suggest skipping the MOT Type 1 sub-base to save money.

• How deep will you excavate, and what type of sub-base will you use?
• How will you ensure the patio falls away from the house for drainage?
• Is waste removal and skip hire included in the total quote?
• Do you provide a guarantee against sinking or shifting bricks?

UK Regulations

• Drainage (SUDS): Since 2008, UK law requires new patios/driveways over 5m² to be permeable or drain into a rain garden/soakaway rather than the public sewer.
• Damp Proof Course (DPC): The finished height of the patio must be at least 150mm (two brick courses) below your home's DPC to prevent rising damp.
• Planning Permission: Generally not required for patios at ground level, but if you are raising the ground significantly (decking style), you may need approval.
• Manhole Access: You must maintain access to any inspection chambers; these should be fitted with "recessed tray" covers filled with matching bricks.

Common Problems

• Sinking or Rutting: Usually caused by an insufficient sub-base or poor compaction. This is the most common failure in "cheap" installations.
• Efflorescence: A white, salty residue that can appear on new bricks. It is natural and usually disappears within a year, but shouldn't be sealed over.
• Poor Drainage: Water pooling in the centre of the patio or against the house wall due to incorrect "falls" being set during the sand stage.
• Weed Growth: While weeds don't usually grow up through the sub-base, they can seed in the joints if the kiln-dried sand isn't maintained.
• Picture Framing: Staining around the edges of bricks caused by using the wrong type of mortar or jointing compound.

Frequently Asked Questions