Plaster interior walls.

Whether you are skimming over old Artex, repairing "blown" plaster on a Victorian terrace, or finishing a new extension, the quality of the plasterwork dictates the final look of the room. Poor plastering cannot be hidden by paint; it requires a skilled hand to achieve a flawless, "mirror-like" finish.

What Does the Work Involve?

• Site Preparation: Covering floors with heavy-duty protection and masking off sockets, switches, and woodwork.
• Substrate Assessment: Checking for damp, loose "blown" plaster, or suction issues that might cause the new plaster to crack.
• Priming: Applying bonding agents like PVA or Blue Grit to ensure the new plaster adheres correctly to the wall.
• Beading: Fixing metal or plastic beads to external corners to ensure straight, impact-resistant edges.
• Backing Coat: Applying a base layer (such as Bonding or Browning) to level out deep holes or bare brickwork.
• Skimming: Applying two thin coats of finishing plaster (typically Multi-finish) and trowelling to a smooth finish.
• Polishing: Using a clean trowel and a fine mist of water to "close in" the surface as the plaster begins to set.

Typical Costs

The total cost is primarily driven by the condition of your existing walls. If the plaster is "blown" (detached from the brickwork), it must be hacked off and replaced, which significantly increases labour time and waste disposal costs compared to a simple skim.

How Long Does It Take?

• Patching/Small Repairs: 2–4 hours (one visit).
• Skimming a single room: 1 full day for a professional.
• Full room (strip back to brick and replaster): 2–3 days.
• Entire 3-bedroom house: 7–10 working days.

DIY or Professional?

Plastering is one of the few trades where DIY is rarely recommended for visible finish coats. While a keen DIYer can manage "dot and dab" plasterboarding, achieving a flat, smooth skim coat requires muscle memory and perfect timing that only comes with years of experience.

Attempting to DIY a large ceiling often results in the plaster "going off" (setting) before you can smooth it, leading to visible ridges and a lot of dusty sanding later.

Choosing the Right Tradesperson

• Check for Portfolios: A good plasterer will have photos of "wet" work and finished, dry walls to show their neatness.
• Recommendations: Word of mouth is gold in plastering; ask neighbours who have recently renovated.
• Cleanliness: Plastering is inherently messy. Ask how they intend to protect your carpets and how they handle waste.
• Questions to Ask:
  • Are you insured for Public Liability?
  • Will you be using a bonding agent or hacking back the old plaster?
  • Is waste removal included in the quote?
  • How long should I wait before I can paint?

UK Regulations

• Part L (Conservation of Fuel and Power): If you are renovating more than 50% of a "thermal element" (an external wall), you may be required to upgrade the insulation to meet current Building Regulations.
• Asbestos Awareness: In properties built before 2000, Artex ceilings may contain white asbestos. This must be tested before being scraped or sanded.
• Waste Disposal: Plasterboard cannot be sent to standard landfill in the UK; it must be separated for gypsum recycling. Ensure your tradesperson uses a licensed waste carrier.

Common Problems

• Crazing (Spider-web cracks): Usually caused by the plaster drying too quickly in a heated room or being applied over a high-suction surface without priming.
• Blown Plaster: A hollow sound when tapped, indicating the plaster has detached from the substrate, often due to historic damp or poor prep.
• Bead Rusting: Using standard steel beads in a damp environment (like a bathroom) instead of stainless steel or plastic.
• Visible Joins: "Mapping" or visible lines where plasterboard sheets meet, often caused by failing to use "scrim tape" on the joints.

Frequently Asked Questions