Home/Bathrooms/Guides/Bathroom Fittings Guide

Choose your bathroom fittings.

Taps, showers, basins and storage — what to spec, what to skip, and what to expect to pay.

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Top tips

Hiring a bathrooms, without the regret.

Four moves that separate a smooth job from a nightmare.

Incompatible Water Pressure

Buying "High Pressure" (HP) taps for a gravity-fed (tank in the loft) system will result in a pathetic trickle of water.

Poor Substrate Fixing

Heavy mirrored cabinets falling off walls because they were fixed into plasterboard rather than the timber studs behind.

Silicone Failure

Using cheap, non-sanitary silicone that turns black with mould within months.

Cross-Threading

Damaging the threads on expensive designer taps by forcing connections, leading to permanent leaks.

Costs & timeline

Know what it costs. Know when it ends.

Indicative UK ranges and a typical week-by-week schedule.

Cost range

By job type

Inc. VAT · 2026
Source: NMT quotes
Plumber Call-out FeeCovers the first hour or travel time.
£50–£110
Basin or Bath Tap SwapIncludes basic labour and mid-range fittings.
£150–£350
Heated Towel Rail (Hydronic)Depends on size and if pipework needs moving.
£250–£600
Vanity Unit & Basin InstallExcludes floor-to-wall plumbing reconfiguration.
£350–£850
Bathroom Accessory SetMirror, toilet roll holder, and shelving.
£80–£200
Waste DisposalRemoval of old porcelain and packaging.
£20–£70
!

Quote spread is typically ± 18% — always get 3 quotes.

Timeline

Mid-range bathroom refurb · week by week

Typical
5 phases · 3 wk
W1
W2
W3
Strip out + plumb rough-in
Tank + first-fix electrics
Tile + grout
Fit suite + 2nd fix
Silicone + snag
!

Schedule slips on dependencies — pad each phase by 10–20% for real-world delays.

At a glance

The Bathrooms briefing.

Infographic · Video
Infographic

Bathrooms quick-view

Bathroom Fittings Guide infographic
Video guide

Bathrooms explained

For UK homeowners, ensuring these installations are watertight and compliant with local regulations is vital. High-quality fittings not only improve your morning routine but also protect your property from the long-term structural damage caused by slow, hidden leaks.

What Does the Work Involve?

  • Site Survey: Assessing existing pipework, wall substrates (masonry vs stud), and identifying electrical isolation points.
  • Decommissioning: Safely removing old taps, cistern internals, or cabinetry and capping off supply lines to prevent flooding.
  • Substrate Preparation: Repairing walls, drilling tiles using specialised diamond bits, and installing backer boards or reinforcements for heavy items like wall-hung vanities.
  • Installation: Fitting new components using WRAS-approved connectors, flexible hoses, and isolation valves for future maintenance.
  • Testing & Calibration: Pressure testing joints, setting thermostatic mixing valves (TMVs) to prevent scalding, and adjusting flow restrictors.
  • Finishing: Applying sanitary-grade, anti-mould silicone sealant to all penetrations and junctions to ensure a 100% waterproof finish.

Typical Costs

Item / Service Low £ High £ Notes
Plumber Call-out Fee £50 £110 Covers the first hour or travel time.
Basin or Bath Tap Swap £150 £350 Includes basic labour and mid-range fittings.
Heated Towel Rail (Hydronic) £250 £600 Depends on size and if pipework needs moving.
Vanity Unit & Basin Install £350 £850 Excludes floor-to-wall plumbing reconfiguration.
Bathroom Accessory Set £80 £200 Mirror, toilet roll holder, and shelving.
Waste Disposal £20 £70 Removal of old porcelain and packaging.

Prices vary significantly based on your location (London and the South East carry a 20-30% premium) and the condition of your existing plumbing. If your stopcock is seized or your pipework is outdated lead or iron, expect labour costs to increase as these must be modernised before new fittings are attached.

How Long Does It Take?

  • Simple Tap Swap: 1–2 hours. This is usually a straightforward "like-for-like" replacement.
  • Vanity Unit & Basin: 3–5 hours. Requires assembly, plumbing connections, and silicone curing time.
  • Heated Towel Rail: 4–6 hours. Takes longer if the system needs draining and refilling (inhibitor added).
  • Full Accessory Refresh: 1 day. Replacing taps, a mirror, a cabinet, and several wall-mounted rails.

DIY or Professional?

While mounting a mirror or a toilet roll holder is a manageable DIY task, any work involving water pressure or electricity should be handled by a professional. Modern high-pressure systems can cause significant flood damage in minutes if a joint is improperly crimped or a compression fitting is over-tightened.

Electrical items, such as illuminated mirrors or electric towel rails, must be installed by a Part P qualified electrician if they are within specific "zones" of the bathroom.

Choosing the Right Tradesperson

  • Check Qualifications: Ensure they are familiar with the Water Supply (Water Fittings) Regulations. If they are moving a gas boiler for a towel rail, they must be Gas Safe registered.
  • Ask for Portfolios: Look for clean silicone lines and perfectly level installations in their previous work.
  • Insurance: Verify they hold valid Public Liability Insurance (minimum £1 million) to cover accidental water damage.
  • Key Questions:
    • "Will you install local isolation valves if they aren't already there?"
    • "How do you ensure tiles don't crack when drilling for accessories?"
    • "Is the disposal of the old units included in your quote?"

UK Regulations

  • Part P (Building Regulations): Covers electrical safety in bathrooms. Any new circuit or work in high-risk zones requires certification.
  • WRAS Approval: Ideally, all taps and valves should be WRAS (Water Regulations Advisory Scheme) approved to ensure they don't contaminate the UK water supply.
  • Part G: Regulates sanitation, hot water safety, and water efficiency. New builds or major renovations may require flow-restricted fittings to meet sustainability targets.

Common Problems

  • Incompatible Water Pressure: Buying "High Pressure" (HP) taps for a gravity-fed (tank in the loft) system will result in a pathetic trickle of water.
  • Poor Substrate Fixing: Heavy mirrored cabinets falling off walls because they were fixed into plasterboard rather than the timber studs behind.
  • Silicone Failure: Using cheap, non-sanitary silicone that turns black with mould within months.
  • Cross-Threading: Damaging the threads on expensive designer taps by forcing connections, leading to permanent leaks.

Frequently Asked Questions

Do I need to turn off the water for the whole house?

If you have modern isolation valves (small chrome valves with a screw slot) under your sinks or toilets, the plumber can isolate just that area. If not, the main stopcock will need to be turned off for the duration of the fitting.

Can I swap my radiator for a heated towel rail?

Yes, but towel rails generally have a lower heat output (BTU) than standard radiators. Your plumber should check if the new rail is powerful enough to keep the room warm during winter.

Why is my new tap making a whistling noise?

This is usually caused by high water pressure or a partially closed isolation valve. Installing a pressure-reducing valve or adjusting the flow can typically solve the issue.

Will drilling into my bathroom tiles break them?

Not if done correctly. Professionals use diamond-tipped drill bits and cooling water or wax to prevent cracking. Never use the "hammer" setting on a drill when working with porcelain or ceramic tiles.

How long should I wait before using the bathroom after sealing?

Most sanitary silicone sealants require at least 24 hours to cure fully. Using the shower or basin too early can cause the seal to fail, leading to leaks behind the walls.

This guide was written with AI assistance and is intended for general information only. Prices are estimates based on UK averages and may vary by region. Always get at least three quotes and consult a qualified professional before starting any work.

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