Replace your shower door.

Whether you are upgrading to a modern frameless design or replacing a leaking bifold unit, the installation requires precision. Even a few millimetres of misalignment can cause leaks, stiff operation, or even shattered glass panels.

What Does the Work Involve?

• Removal: Carefully dismantling the old door, frame, and seals, followed by safe disposal of the toughened glass.
• Inspection: Checking the shower tray and walls for levelness, and inspecting the substrate for signs of rot or water ingress.
• Preparation: Cleaning away old silicone and drilling new pilot holes into tiles or wall panels using diamond-tipped bits.
• Fitting: Installing the new wall profiles and frame (sliding, hinged, or bifold) and securing them to the wall.
• Hanging: Lifting the glass panels into place and adjusting rollers or hinges for a perfectly smooth movement.
• Sealing: Applying high-quality sanitary-grade silicone to the exterior joins to ensure a watertight finish.

Typical Costs

Costs are primarily driven by the type of glass selected and the complexity of the fixings. Frameless doors often require more expensive, heavy-duty hinges and perfectly flat walls, which may increase labour time.

How Long Does It Take?

• Standard "Like-for-Like" Swap: 2–3 hours.
• New Frame Installation: 3–5 hours, including wall adjustments.
• Bespoke Frameless Glass: 4–6 hours, often requiring two people for heavy lifting.
• Sealant Curing: 24 hours (essential before the shower can be used).

DIY or Professional?

While a confident DIYer can fit a basic shower door, hiring a professional is highly recommended. Shower glass is heavy and tempered; if a corner is knocked during installation, the entire panel can spontaneously shatter.

Professional installers provide a guarantee on the "watertightness" of the job, saving you from the risk of damp and mould caused by poor sealing.

Choosing the Right Tradesperson

• Look for bathroom fitters or specialist glazing installers with positive local reviews.
• Check Insurance: Ensure they have Public Liability insurance to cover accidental glass breakage.
• Ask for Portfolios: Request photos of previous frameless or bespoke installations if you have a high-end design.
• Questions to ask:
  • Do you include the disposal of the old glass and frame in your quote?
  • Which brand of silicone do you use (anti-mould is preferred)?
  • Will you need to drill into my tiles, and do you have the specialized bits to prevent cracking?

UK Regulations

• Safety Glass: All shower doors must be made of toughened safety glass, complying with BS EN 12150 or BS 6206.
• Building Regs (Part P): If the installer needs to move any electrical points (like a shower pull-cord) to accommodate a wider door, they must be Part P qualified.
• Waste Disposal: If the tradesperson takes the old door away, they should ideally hold a lower-tier waste carrier licence.

Common Problems

• Leaking at the Base: Usually caused by applying silicone to the inside of the frame rather than just the outside, which traps water.
• Door Dropping: Over time, heavy glass panels can sag if the hinges weren't anchored into a solid wall or stud.
• Cracked Tiles: Using the wrong drill bit or too much pressure when fixing the wall profile can easily crack ceramic or porcelain tiles.
• Magnetic Seal Gaps: If the walls aren't perfectly plumb, the magnetic seals won't meet, leading to significant splashing outside the tray.

Frequently Asked Questions