Install a garage door.

A new garage door installation in the UK typically costs £600–£3,500 supplied and fitted, depending on door type, size, materials and whether you want it electric. Manual up-and-over doors start at £600; insulated electric sectional doors and roller shutters are £1,200-£2,800; premium aluminium or hardwood designs reach £3,500+. The job itself takes 4-8 hours for a like-for-like swap.

Replacing a single garage door pays for itself in security alone — old up-and-over doors in poor condition are a known weak point for break-ins, and insurance rates often improve with a modern Secured by Design door.

Garage door types and what they cost

Door types — pros and cons

• Up-and-over (canopy or retractable) — the traditional UK garage door. Cheap, simple, but takes up internal headroom and projects outward when opening (impacts driveway parking).
• Sectional — opens vertically into the ceiling space, no outward projection, excellent insulation. The choice for converted-to-living-space garages.
• Roller shutter — rolls into a small box above the opening. Compact, secure, but less insulated than sectional unless premium spec.
• Side-hinged — pair of doors that swing open. Useful if the garage stores items piled high (no overhead tracking) and for traditional/period properties.

Insulation and U-values

Garage doors increasingly form part of the thermal envelope, particularly when garages are integrated with living space or used as workshops/offices. Insulated sectional and roller doors achieve U-values of 1.0–1.5 W/m²K — comparable to a basic external wall. Uninsulated steel up-and-over doors are essentially zero insulation.

For integrated garages or planned conversions, specify an insulated door from day one. The marginal cost (£200-£400 over uninsulated) is far cheaper than retrofitting later.

Electric operators

• Belt-drive operators — quietest, most popular for residential (running over bedrooms above).
• Chain-drive — cheapest, slightly noisier, robust.
• Direct-drive — premium, very quiet, motor mounted on the side track.
• Remote / smart control — keyfob standard, smartphone control via Hörmann BiSecur, Sommer SOMlink, or Chamberlain MyQ adds £80-£250.

All should have safety features: photoelectric beam (stops the door if something crosses while closing), force-limiting (door reverses if it hits an obstacle), and manual release (operate the door if power fails).

Things people often miss

• Headroom requirements — sectional doors need 100-200 mm of clearance above the opening for the tracking. Up-and-over needs 100 mm. Some garages have insufficient headroom for certain door types.
• Side-room requirements — sectional doors need 90-150 mm clear vertical space to either side for the tracking. Tight spaces may rule out certain models.
• Door size matters — UK standard single garage opening is 7×7 ft (2.13 × 2.13 m); modern cars (SUVs, EVs) often need 8×7 ft openings. Replacing a tight door with the same size limits future-proofing.
• Floor seal — a good seal at the bottom prevents draughts, water, leaves and pests. Check what's included; cheap doors skimp here.
• Power supply — electric operators need a fused spur close to the motor. If your garage has no dedicated socket, factor in £150-£300 for a Part P electrician to install one.
• Building Regs for garage conversions — converting the garage to a habitable room requires the door opening to be insulated to U-value 0.18 W/m²K (typically blocked up and clad), not just an insulated door. Insulated doors don't satisfy thermal regs for habitable conversions.

Frequently asked questions

Want a local pro to handle this? A garage door specialist (rather than a general builder) is the right trade — most carry the leading brands (Hörmann, Garador, SWS) and can survey, supply and fit in one visit. Get 2-3 quotes for the same spec; pricing varies considerably.