Install a glass shower screen.

Whether you are opting for a simple over-bath panel or a bespoke frameless enclosure, precision is vital. Modern toughened glass is heavy and unforgiving; even a minor measurement error or a slight misalignment during installation can lead to leaks or, in extreme cases, the glass shattering.

What Does the Work Involve?

• Site Assessment: Checking wall levels and identifying the substrate (stud wall vs. solid masonry) to ensure it can support the weight of the glass.
• Precision Measurement: Measuring the aperture at multiple points to account for walls that are not perfectly "true" or plumb.
• Preparation: Marking out fixing points and carefully drilling through tiles using specialised diamond-tipped or carbide drill bits.
• Hardware Installation: Securing wall profiles, hinges, or brackets using appropriate heavy-duty fixings.
• Glass Positioning: Carefully lifting and slotting the toughened glass into place, ensuring even gaps for seals.
• Sealing: Applying high-grade, anti-fungal sanitary silicone to the external edges to ensure a 100% watertight finish.
• Testing: Checking the swing or sliding mechanism of doors to ensure smooth operation without catching on the tray or floor.

Typical Costs

Prices in 2025/26 are influenced primarily by the thickness of the glass (6mm, 8mm, or 10mm) and the finish of the hardware. Bespoke cuts for awkward spaces or "easy-clean" protective coatings will also add a premium to the final quote.

How Long Does It Take?

• Standard Over-Bath Screen: 1 to 2 hours for a straightforward replacement or new install.
• Walk-in Wet Room Panel: 2 to 3 hours, including the installation of support arms and floor seals.
• Full Enclosure (Sliding/Hinged): 3 to 5 hours, depending on the complexity of the frame and door alignment.
• Bespoke Frameless Systems: 4 to 6 hours, as these require extreme precision and often involve multiple glass-to-glass joins.

DIY or Professional?

While a confident DIYer might manage a lightweight over-bath screen, professional installation is strongly recommended for most glass work. Toughened glass is incredibly strong on its face but highly vulnerable at its edges; a small knock against a tiled floor during installation can cause the entire panel to explode into thousands of fragments.

Professional installers carry the liability for breakage during fitting and possess the specialised tools required to drill through porcelain or natural stone tiles without cracking them.

Furthermore, ensuring a screen is perfectly level on a tray that may have a slight fall requires experience. A professional will guarantee the door remains in the position you leave it, rather than "creeping" open or shut due to poor alignment.

Choosing the Right Tradesperson

• Check Qualifications: Look for installers who are members of the Glass and Glazing Federation (GGF) or have extensive experience in bathroom fitting.
• Verify Insurance: Ensure they have Public Liability insurance that specifically covers glass breakage and water damage.
• Ask for Portfolio: Request photos of previous "frameless" installations if that is the style you are choosing, as these require the highest skill level.
• Questions to Ask:
  • Do you use "neutral cure" silicone to prevent tarnishing on specific finishes?
  • Is the glass BS EN 12150 compliant?
  • How do you handle "out of true" walls that aren't perfectly vertical?
  • What is your policy if the glass breaks during the installation process?

UK Regulations

In the UK, glass used in bathrooms must meet strict safety standards to prevent injury in the event of a collision.

• BS EN 12150: This is the standard for thermally toughened soda lime silicate safety glass. All shower screens sold in the UK must meet this or an equivalent safety standard.
• Building Regulations Part K: This regulation dictates that glass in "critical locations" (which includes showers and baths) must be safety glass that breaks into small, relatively harmless grains rather than large shards.
• Documentation: Your installer should be able to point out the safety "kitemark" etched into the corner of the glass panel.

Common Problems

• Leaking at the Base: Usually caused by applying silicone to the inside of the screen rather than the outside, which traps water in the profile.
• Shattering: Often the result of the glass edge making contact with a hard surface like a screw head or a tiled floor during installation.
• Dropping Doors: Hinged doors can sag over time if the fixings weren't adequately anchored into a solid wall or appropriate stud work.
• Mouldy Seals: Using low-quality sealant instead of high-grade sanitary silicone leads to black mould growth within months.

Frequently Asked Questions