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Sticking, dropped, broken handle or split panel — fixed without ripping out the whole door.
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Four moves that separate a smooth job from a nightmare.
Carpet pile or LVT thickness pushes the door tight. Plane 3–8mm off the bottom — once-only, so be exact.
Hinges loosen with use; the door drops and sticks on the lock side. Pack the top hinge with a strip of cardboard.
Pine doors swell 2–4mm in summer humidity. Plane the swelling edge in summer — it'll be too loose in winter, but liveable.
Frame movement misaligns the latch and strike. Re-cut the strike plate position.
Indicative UK ranges and what affects price.
By job type
Quote spread is typically ± 18% — always get 3 quotes.
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Doors explained
Most internal door problems — sticking, dropping, latch not catching, hinge squeak — are small fixes a carpenter can sort in under an hour. Full replacement is rarely necessary unless the slab is split. Expect to pay £40–£250 for a typical UK internal door repair callout.
The carpenter diagnoses why the door isn't working — usually one of: hinge sag, frame movement, swollen slab from damp, paint build-up, or worn latch. Common fixes include planing the binding edge, packing a hinge with cardboard shim, replacing a worn hinge, re-cutting the latch mortice deeper, or in severe cases re-hanging the door on new hinges. Sticking at the bottom after new flooring usually means trimming 3–8mm off the door bottom.
| Item | Low (£) | High (£) | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Carpenter call-out (minimum) | 50 | 120 | First hour |
| Plane and re-hang a sticking door | 40 | 90 | 1 hour total |
| Hinge replacement (set of 3) | 60 | 150 | Includes hinges |
| Latch / lock replacement | 50 | 140 | Includes mechanism |
| Trim door bottom for new flooring | 40 | 90 | Once-only if planed off |
| Strip and re-paint slab | 80 | 200 | 1–2 hours + drying |
| Replace door slab in existing lining | 120 | 350 | Material plus labour |
Most simple repairs are under an hour. Full re-hang on new hinges takes 1–2 hours. Door-slab replacement is 2–4 hours depending on whether the latch needs re-mortising.
Tightening a loose hinge or planing a sticking edge is a competent DIYer's job. Re-mortising a latch, replacing hinges or trimming the bottom needs a sharp chisel and a plane — and the confidence to take wood off without making things worse.
A handyman or general carpenter is fine for simple door repairs. Ask if they bring their own plane and chisels (some don't). Quality fitters quote a minimum call-out fee then per-additional-15-minutes — get the rate clarified up front.
Internal door repairs don't need notification. The exception: if the door is FD30 fire-rated (e.g. between integral garage and house), repair must not compromise the rating — no jigsawing the bottom, no removing the intumescent strips.
Seasonal humidity swelling. Plane the binding edge in summer; the door will be slightly loose in winter but won't bind. Avoid stripping all the paint as bare timber swells more.
The top hinge has loosened or worn. Either the screws need re-tightening (often into longer screws hitting the frame stud), or the hinge needs replacement.
Up to about 15mm before you weaken the door rail. Beyond that, replace the slab.
Mark where the latch hits the strike plate, then file the strike opening 1–2mm wider in the right direction. If the gap is greater than 5mm, re-position the strike plate.
A drop of 3-IN-ONE oil into the top of the hinge knuckle — work the door back and forth — solves 99% of squeaks. Silicone spray works for plastic hinges.
Yes — a clean horizontal split can be glued with wood adhesive and clamped overnight. Vertical splits or shattered panels usually mean replacement is cheaper than the carpenter time.
This guide was written with AI assistance and is intended for general information only. Prices are estimates based on UK averages and may vary by region. Always get at least three quotes and consult a qualified professional before starting any work.
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