Replace your guttering.

Replacing old, leaking, or sagging gutters ensures rainwater is efficiently diverted away from your property. Modern uPVC and aluminium systems offer a long-lasting, low-maintenance solution that also enhances your home's kerb appeal.

What Does the Work Involve?

• Site Survey: Measuring gutter runs, identifying downpipe positions, and checking the condition of existing fascias and soffits.
• Access Setup: Erecting safe access using ladder stand-offs, alloy towers, or full scaffolding for high or difficult-to-reach areas.
• Removal: Carefully stripping out old guttering, brackets, and downpipes, followed by responsible waste disposal.
• Preparation: Inspecting the fascia boards for rot and ensuring the mounting surface is secure for new fittings.
• Installation: Fitting new brackets at 600mm centres with a precise "fall" (slope) towards the outlets.
• Sealing and Testing: Connecting gutter lengths with expansion joints and performing a water-flow test to ensure no leaks or pooling.

Typical Costs

The total cost depends primarily on the size of your home and the materials chosen. While uPVC is the most common option, premium materials like seamless aluminium or cast-iron effect will increase the budget.

Pro Tip: Always check the condition of your fascias during a gutter replacement. It is significantly cheaper to replace rotten timber boards while the guttering is already removed.

How Long Does It Take?

• Small Terraced/Bungalow: 3–5 hours (usually half a day).
• Standard Semi-Detached: 1 full working day.
• Large Detached Home: 1.5–2 working days.
• Complex Rooflines/Repairs: Add 0.5 days if fascia boards or rafter feet require replacement.

DIY or Professional?

While guttering components are available at most DIY stores, professional installation is strongly recommended. Working at height carries significant risk, and getting the "fall" of the gutter wrong can lead to standing water and structural dampness.

A professional installer will ensure the system handles heavy UK downpours and usually provides a 10-year workmanship guarantee. They also have the specialist equipment to work safely over conservatories or high gables.

Choosing the Right Tradesperson

• Look for installers with Public Liability Insurance (minimum £1m–£2m).
• Check for memberships in trade bodies like the Federation of Master Builders (FMB) or Confederation of Roofing Contractors.
• Ask if the quote includes the removal and legal disposal of your old guttering.
• Questions to ask:
  • Do you use internal or external brackets?
  • How do you handle hidden rot discovered in the fascias?
  • Is the water-test included in the final sign-off?
  • What is the brand and warranty of the uPVC being used?

UK Regulations

• Building Regulations Part H: Covers drainage and waste disposal, ensuring rainwater is managed correctly without affecting neighbouring land.
• Working at Height Regulations 2005: Contractors must use appropriate safety equipment (scaffolding/towers) for high-risk areas.
• Waste Carriers Licence: Your installer must be registered with the Environment Agency to transport and dispose of your old guttering legally.

Common Problems

• Incorrect Gradient: Gutters installed too flat will pool water, leading to silt build-up, sagging, and eventual leaks.
• Insufficient Brackets: Using too few brackets causes the gutter to bow under the weight of snow or heavy rain.
• Ignoring Fascias: Installing new gutters onto rotten timber fascias will cause the entire system to pull away within months.
• Thermal Expansion Issues: Failing to leave gaps in joints can cause uPVC to "creak" and eventually pop out of the seals during temperature changes.

Frequently Asked Questions