Replace your fascia boards.

Replacing your fascias is more than just a cosmetic upgrade; it is essential maintenance to prevent water ingress and damp. Modern uPVC options offer a low-maintenance, long-lasting alternative to traditional timber, which often requires frequent painting and repair.

What Does the Work Involve?

• Site Access and Safety: Setting up towers or scaffolding to ensure safe working at height.
• Removal: Stripping away old guttering and removing existing fascia boards and soffits.
• Rafter Inspection: Checking the exposed rafter feet for rot or damage and performing repairs if necessary.
• Installation: Fitting new fascia boards (usually 18mm thick for full replacement) and matching soffits.
• Eaves Protection: Installing felt support trays or "eaves protectors" to prevent water ponding behind the boards.
• Guttering: Reinstalling existing gutters or fitting a new system with correct falls for drainage.
• Finishing: Sealing all joints and corners with colour-matched silicone and box-end trims.

Typical Costs

The cost of fascia replacement varies significantly depending on whether you choose a "full replacement" (removing old timber) or "capping" (covering existing timber). Prices also reflect the size of your property and the need for scaffolding.

Labour rates typically range from £200 to £350 per day per person. Prices in London and the South East are generally 20% higher than the national average.

How Long Does It Take?

• Small Repair: 2–4 hours (typically a single board or corner).
• Terraced House (Front and Back): 1–2 days.
• Semi-Detached House: 2–3 days.
• Large Detached House: 4–6 days.

DIY or Professional?

While replacing a single piece of guttering is a manageable DIY task, fascia replacement is best left to professionals. Working at height requires specialist equipment, and improper installation can lead to "trapped" moisture, which rots your roof rafters from the inside out.

Professional installers provide insurance-backed guarantees and ensure your roofline meets current ventilation standards.

Choosing the Right Tradesperson

• Check Qualifications: Look for installers registered with trade bodies like the NFRC (National Federation of Roofing Contractors) or CompetentRoofer.
• Red Flags: Be wary of quotes that are significantly lower than others, as they may be "capping" over rotten wood rather than replacing it.
• Ask for Samples: Ensure they are using high-quality, thick uPVC (18mm for full replacement) rather than thin 9mm capping boards.
• Questions to Ask:
  • Are you removing the old timber entirely or just covering it?
  • Does the quote include scaffolding and waste disposal?
  • Will you install eaves protection or bird guards?
  • What is the length of the product and labour guarantee?

UK Regulations

• Building Regulations (Part F): Adequate roof ventilation must be maintained to prevent condensation in the loft space.
• Working at Height: Contractors must comply with the 2005 Regulations, often requiring scaffolding or secure towers for anything above ground floor.
• Asbestos: Older soffit boards (pre-2000) may contain asbestos; if suspected, a specialist survey is required before removal.

Common Problems

• Capping Over Rot: This is the most common "cowboy" tactic. Covering rotten wood traps moisture, which eventually destroys the rafter feet.
• Poor Falls: If the gutters aren't fitted with a slight downward slope toward the downpipe, water will pool and overflow.
• Lack of Ventilation: Blocking off eaves ventilation can lead to damp and mould in your attic within a single season.
• Thermal Expansion: uPVC expands and contracts; if boards are pinned too tightly or without expansion gaps, they will warp or "smile."

Frequently Asked Questions