Repair a garage door.

Whether you have a traditional up-and-over, a modern sectional, or a space-saving roller door, most mechanical issues can be repaired by a specialist. Timely repairs prevent minor alignment issues from turning into expensive motor failures or structural damage.

What Does the Work Involve?

• Diagnostic Inspection: Checking tracks for debris, assessing cable wear, and testing spring tension.
• Component Replacement: Removing snapped cables, worn rollers, or fatigued springs and installing manufacturer-approved spares.
• Mechanical Alignment: Re-levelling the door leaf and ensuring tracks are perfectly parallel to prevent binding.
• Motor & Electronics: Testing safety sensors, recalibrating travel limits, and re-syncing remote handsets.
• Lubrication & Servicing: Applying specialist lithium-based grease to moving parts and tightening all structural bolts.
• Safety Certification: Verifying that the auto-reverse mechanism and manual override function correctly.

Typical Costs

Prices are influenced by your location (London and the South East typically command higher rates) and the specific brand of your door. Premium German brands like Hormann or Garador may require more expensive, proprietary spare parts compared to generic UK models.

How Long Does It Take?

• Basic Cable/Roller Swap: 45 to 90 minutes.
• Spring Replacement: 1 to 2 hours, depending on accessibility.
• New Operator/Motor Install: 2 to 4 hours for a standard retrofit.
• Structural Track Realignment: 2 to 3 hours if the frame has shifted.

DIY or Professional?

While basic lubrication and cleaning are safe DIY tasks, mechanical repairs should be left to professionals. Garage door springs are under immense tension; if they snap during a DIY repair, they can cause life-changing injuries or significant property damage.

Warning: Never attempt to adjust or remove a torsion spring or bottom bracket yourself. These components hold the full weight of the door and require specialist winding bars and training to handle safely.

Electric doors must also comply with UK safety regulations regarding force limits. A professional installer will use a force-testing jig to ensure the door won't crush an object or person, a check that is impossible to perform accurately without specialist equipment.

Choosing the Right Tradesperson

• Check Qualifications: Look for installers who are members of the Door & Hardware Federation (DHF) or are manufacturer-approved.
• Verify Insurance: Ensure they hold valid Public Liability Insurance (minimum £2 million).
• Ask about Spares: A good specialist should carry common cables, rollers, and springs for major brands like Henderson, Cardale, and Wessex on their van.
• Questions to ask:
  • Do you offer a warranty on both parts and labour?
  • Will you perform a safety force test if my door is automated?
  • Is the quote inclusive of VAT and disposal of old parts?

UK Regulations

Garage door installations and major repairs are governed by several UK standards to ensure user safety. If your door is powered, it is legally classed as a "machine."

• BS EN 13241-1: The primary product standard for garage doors, covering safety in use.
• Supply of Machinery (Safety) Regulations: Relevant for all automated doors to ensure they have adequate "crush protection."
• UKCA/CE Marking: Any new motor or significant modification to an electric door must be documented to show compliance with safety laws.
• Part P (Electrical Safety): If a new power circuit is required for a garage door motor, it must be installed by a competent person or certified electrician.

Common Problems

• Snapped Cables: Often caused by rust or the door being operated while locked. The door will usually hang at an angle and become jammed.
• Fatigued Springs: Garage door springs have a "cycle life" (usually 10,000–20,000 opens). When they fail, the door will feel incredibly heavy or the motor will strain and stop.
• Sensor Misalignment: On electric doors, if the "photo-eye" sensors are knocked out of line, the door will refuse to close or will instantly reverse.
• Noisy Operation: Screeching or grinding usually indicates dry bearings or rollers that have developed "flat spots" and need replacing.
• Obstruction in Tracks: Small stones or debris in the side tracks can cause the door to judder or trigger the safety reverse mechanism.

Frequently Asked Questions