Lawn re-edging and relaying

Whether you are looking to sharpen up existing borders with permanent steel edging or completely overhaul a patchy, uneven lawn, understanding the process and costs involved ensures you get a finish that lasts for years rather than months.

What Does the Work Involve?

• Site Survey and Marking: The landscaper will assess the current levels and mark out new lines using string lines or spray paint to ensure perfectly straight edges or smooth, flowing curves.
• Stripping and Excavation: Removal of old, ragged turf and invasive roots, followed by the excavation of a shallow trench for the new edging material.
• Edging Installation: Securing your chosen material—such as weather-resistant timber, flexible steel, or decorative stone—into the ground to provide a permanent barrier between the lawn and borders.
• Soil Preparation: Levelling the area with high-quality topsoil or a sand-soil mix to eliminate dips and ensure a flat surface for the new grass.
• Relaying: Laying fresh, nursery-grown turf or applying high-grade grass seed, followed by tamping or light rolling to ensure good soil contact.
• Waste Removal: Clearing away "arisings" (old turf and soil) and ensuring the site is left clean, followed by a thorough initial watering.

Typical Costs

The cost of lawn re-edging and relaying depends heavily on the linear meterage of the edges and the quality of the turf selected. Labour remains the largest component due to the physical nature of the work.

Factors such as restricted access (e.g., carrying materials through a terraced house) and the need for specialized machinery like sod cutters will increase the final quote.

How Long Does It Take?

• Small Lawns (up to 30m²): Usually completed in 4–6 hours by an experienced team.
• Medium Lawns (30–80m²): Typically a full day's work, including site preparation and waste removal.
• Large or Complex Projects: 2 days or more, especially if installing heavy stone edging or correcting significant drainage issues.
• Weather Contingency: Heavy rain can delay work, as laying turf on waterlogged soil can damage the soil structure and prevent root establishment.

DIY or Professional?

Cutting a simple edge with a half-moon tool is a straightforward DIY task. However, relaying a lawn or installing permanent metal or stone edging is back-breaking work that requires a keen eye for levels.

Professional landscapers use sod cutters to ensure a uniform depth and heavy rollers to prevent "puddling" later on. If your garden has drainage issues, a professional can also incorporate sand slits or French drains during the relaying process.

While there are no specific building regulations for lawn work, any professional removing waste from your property must hold a valid Environment Agency Waste Carrier Licence.

Choosing the Right Tradesperson

• Check Credentials: Look for members of the British Association of Landscape Industries (BALI) or the Association of Professional Landscapers (APL).
• Insurance: Ensure they hold Public Liability Insurance (minimum £1m-£2m) to cover any damage to your property or underground services.
• Ask for Portfolios: A good landscaper will have photos of "settled" lawns they have laid, not just photos of the work on day one.

Questions to ask:

• Do you provide a watering and aftercare schedule?
• Will you be using cultivated turf or meadow turf? (Cultivated is far superior for domestic gardens).
• Is the cost of waste disposal included in the quote?
• How do you plan to handle levels to ensure water drains away from the house?

UK Regulations

• Waste Disposal: Under the "Duty of Care" legislation, homeowners are responsible for ensuring their waste is disposed of legally. Always ask for a waste transfer note.
• Underground Services: Landscapers should check for shallow-buried cables or irrigation pipes before digging, though homeowners should point out known services.
• Water Restrictions: During hosepipe bans, newly laid turf is often exempt for a limited period (usually 28 days), but you must check your local water provider's specific rules.

Common Problems

• Soil Slumping: If the ground isn't properly compacted before relaying, the lawn will develop "hollows" within six months.
• Edge Gaps: Using cheap plastic edging that expands and contracts in UK temperatures can cause unsightly gaps or "heaving" out of the ground.
• Turf Shrinkage: If turf is laid too loosely or not watered immediately, the rolls will shrink, leaving brown gaps between each strip.
• Poor Drainage: Failing to address compacted subsoil before relaying often leads to moss problems and waterlogging in the winter.

Frequently Asked Questions

When is the best time of year to relay a lawn?

Spring (March to May) and Autumn (September to October) are ideal. The soil is warm, and there is usually enough rainfall to help roots establish without the scorching heat of summer or the dormancy of winter.

How long should I stay off the new grass?

You should avoid walking on newly laid turf for at least 3 weeks. If you must walk on it to water, use wide wooden planks to distribute your weight and prevent indentations.

Can I lay new turf over my old lawn?

This is not recommended. The old grass will rot down, causing the new turf to become uneven, and weeds from the old lawn will quickly grow through the new layer. Always strip the old turf first.

What is the best edging for a low-maintenance garden?

Everedge or similar powder-coated steel edging is the gold standard. It is thin enough to be invisible, prevents grass roots from spreading into borders, and is tough enough to be mown over directly.

Why is my new turf turning yellow?

This is usually a sign of "stress," most commonly caused by underwatering. In the first two weeks, a new lawn needs deep soaking every evening (unless it rains heavily) to ensure the water reaches the soil beneath the turf.