Turfing and patio repointing

Professional turfing and patio repointing not only boost your home's kerb appeal but also prevent structural damage caused by water ingress and weed growth. Whether you are preparing for a summer of hosting or simply want a low-maintenance garden, these two tasks are the most cost-effective ways to transform a tired backyard.

What Does the Work Involve?

• Site Assessment: Measuring the area, checking for drainage issues, and identifying the type of existing paving material.
• Turf Preparation: Stripping old grass, rotovating the soil, and adding high-quality topsoil to create a level, nutrient-rich base.
• Laying the Lawn: Installing fresh, weed-free turf rolls with staggered joints, followed by firming and initial heavy watering.
• Patio Raking: Removing old, crumbling mortar using mechanical rakes or hand tools to a depth of at least 20mm.
• Joint Cleaning: Deep-cleaning the gaps to remove organic matter, moss, and debris that prevent new mortar from bonding.
• Repointing: Applying new jointing compound—typically a modern polymeric sand or a traditional sand-and-cement mix—and finishing the surface for a clean look.

Typical Costs

Prices for landscaping vary based on your location in the UK and the ease of access to your garden. The following estimates include materials, labour, and VAT at 20%.

The primary cost drivers are the current state of your soil and the type of jointing material used. Polymeric compounds are more expensive than traditional mortar but offer superior longevity and weed resistance.

How Long Does It Take?

• Small Garden (under 30m²): 1 to 2 days for both turfing and repointing.
• Medium Garden (30m² – 70m²): 2 to 4 days, depending on the amount of old turf to be excavated.
• Large Garden (70m²+): 4 to 6 days, often requiring a larger team and mechanical excavators.
• Curing Time: You must stay off new turf for 2–3 weeks and avoid walking on new patio joints for at least 24 hours.

DIY or Professional?

While laying turf is physically demanding, it is achievable for a fit DIYer. However, the secret to a lawn that stays level is the ground preparation, which often requires professional machinery like rotovators and heavy rollers.

Patio repointing is more technical; using the wrong mix or failing to clean the joints properly will result in the mortar cracking and falling out within a single season. Professionals also have access to industrial pressure washers and mechanical rakes that save days of manual labour.

Note: If you are altering the drainage of your garden or installing a new patio over 5m², you must ensure it complies with UK SUDS (Sustainable Drainage Systems) regulations to prevent surface water flooding.

Choosing the Right Tradesperson

• Check Credentials: Look for membership in the Association of Professional Landscapers (APL) or the British Association of Landscape Industries (BALI).
• Waste Licence: Ensure they hold a valid Waste Carrier Licence from the Environment Agency to dispose of your old turf and soil legally.
• Insurance: Verify they have Public Liability Insurance (minimum £2 million) to cover any damage to your property.
• Ask these questions:
  • Do you use "screened" topsoil to ensure there are no stones or glass?
  • Which jointing compound do you recommend for my specific paving type?
  • Is waste removal included in the quote, or is a skip extra?
  • What is your policy if the turf fails to take within the first month?

UK Regulations

• Part M (Access): If your patio leads to a primary entrance, the repointing must not create trip hazards or impede wheelchair access.
• SUDS: Since 2008, UK law requires patios to be permeable or drain into a rain garden/soakaway rather than the public sewer.
• Waste Management: Under the "Duty of Care" regulations, you are responsible for ensuring your contractor disposes of garden waste at a licensed facility.

Common Problems

• Lumpy Lawn: This happens when the subsoil isn't compacted or levelled correctly before the turf is laid.
• Joint Failure: New mortar often fails because the old joints weren't raked out deep enough (minimum 20mm is the industry standard).
• Yellowing Turf: Usually caused by "turf stress" if it isn't laid within 24 hours of delivery or if it is underwatered in the first week.
• Efflorescence: White salty staining on the patio caused by using the wrong sand/cement ratio in the repointing mix.

Frequently Asked Questions

When is the best time of year to lay new turf?

Spring (March to May) and Autumn (September to November) are ideal. The weather is mild and damp, which helps the roots establish without the risk of drying out in the summer heat or freezing in winter.

Can I use a pressure washer on my newly repointed patio?

You should wait at least 28 days for the mortar to fully cure. Even then, use a fan spray rather than a direct jet to avoid dislodging the new joints.

How much should I water my new lawn?

In the first two weeks, you should water every evening until the water soaks through the turf into the soil below. Do not water in the midday sun, as this can scorch the grass blades.

What is polymeric jointing sand?

It is a high-tech mix of sand and binders that hardens when exposed to water. It remains slightly flexible, preventing cracks, and is far more resistant to weed growth than traditional mortar.

My patio slabs are wobbling; will repointing fix this?

No. Repointing is for aesthetics and weed prevention. If slabs are "rocking," the sub-base has failed, and the slabs must be lifted and re-bedded on a fresh mortar sharp-sand mix before pointing.