Bathroom wall tiling

Whether you are refreshing a small cloakroom or installing a high-end wet room, the success of the project relies heavily on the preparation of the walls and the precision of the finish. Professional tiling ensures your bathroom remains leak-free and aesthetically pleasing for decades.

What Does the Work Involve?

• Preparation: Removal of existing tiles, old adhesive, and any loose plaster to create a clean, flat surface.
• Substrate Repair: Installing moisture-resistant plasterboard or cement backer boards where existing walls are damaged or unsuitable.
• Tanking: Applying a waterproof membrane or liquid tanking system to "wet zones" like showers and bath surrounds to prevent leaks.
• Setting Out: Planning the tile layout to ensure symmetry, avoiding awkward "slivers" or thin cuts at the corners and ceiling.
• Fixing: Applying trade-grade adhesive and fixing tiles with spacers to maintain consistent grout lines.
• Cutting: Precision cutting around pipes, taps, shower valves, and electrical sockets using diamond-blade cutters.
• Grouting & Sealing: Filling joints with mould-resistant grout and applying high-quality silicone sealant to internal corners and sanitaryware junctions.

Typical Costs

The cost of bathroom tiling is primarily driven by the condition of the existing walls and the type of tile chosen. Large-format porcelain or natural stone requires more labour and specialist adhesive than standard ceramic tiles.

Pro Tip: Always allow for 10-15% "wastage" when ordering tiles to account for cuts, breakages, and future repairs.

How Long Does It Take?

• Small Splashback: 3–5 hours (including grouting).
• Standard Shower Enclosure: 1–2 days (allowing for tanking and adhesive drying times).
• Full Bathroom (Floor to Ceiling): 3–5 days depending on room size and complexity.
• Preparation Work: Removing old tiles and re-boarding can add 1 full day to the project.

DIY or Professional?

While DIY tiling is popular for small splashbacks, full bathroom walls—especially in wet areas—are best left to professionals. Incorrectly installed tiles in a shower can lead to catastrophic water damage that may not be visible until the joists have rotted.

Professionals have the specialist equipment needed for clean cuts in hard porcelain and the expertise to ensure walls are perfectly plumb. If your project involves moving an electric shower or adding new lighting, you must use a Part P registered electrician to comply with UK Building Regulations.

Choosing the Right Tradesperson

• Check Qualifications: Look for NVQ Level 2 or 3 in Wall and Floor Tiling or membership in The Tile Association (TTA).
• Portfolio: Ask for photos of previous work, specifically looking at the "setting out" and how they handle corners and trim.
• Insurance: Ensure they hold valid Public Liability Insurance (minimum £1 million).
• Questions to Ask:
  • Do you include "tanking" (waterproofing) in your quote for shower areas?
  • What type of substrate preparation do you recommend for my walls?
  • Will you be using a rapid-set or standard-set adhesive?
  • How do you handle waste disposal and dust control?

UK Regulations

• BS 5385: The British Standard for the design and installation of wall and floor tiling. It mandates that all shower substrates must be waterproofed (tanked) before tiling.
• Building Regs Part M: Applies if you are modifying a bathroom to improve accessibility.
• Document Framework: You should receive a written quote, a schedule of work, and, upon completion, an invoice that acts as your record for any workmanship guarantees.

Common Problems

• Lippage: When tiles are not perfectly level with each other, creating a "lip" that catches the light and looks unprofessional.
• Poor Tanking: Skipping the waterproofing stage in a shower is the most common cause of long-term failure and damp issues.
• Incorrect Adhesive: Using "ready-mixed" tub adhesive for large-format porcelain tiles; these require cement-based powder adhesives to set properly.
• Bad Layout: Starting with a full tile in one corner and ending with a tiny, difficult-to-cut sliver in the most visible area.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can you tile over existing bathroom tiles?

While possible (known as "tile-on-tile"), it is generally discouraged. It adds significant weight to the wall, increases the thickness (which can mess up trim and fixtures), and relies entirely on the bond of the old tiles. It is always better to strip back to the substrate.

What is the difference between ceramic and porcelain tiles?

Ceramic tiles are generally cheaper and easier to cut but are more porous. Porcelain tiles are denser, harder, and almost entirely waterproof, making them ideal for bathrooms, though they require specialist diamond tools to cut.

Do I really need to "tank" my shower walls?

Yes. Grout and adhesive are water-resistant but not 100% waterproof. Over time, moisture can seep through to the plasterboard or masonry behind. Tanking creates an impenetrable barrier that protects your home's structure.

How long should I wait to use the shower after tiling?

You should typically wait at least 24 hours after grouting before using the shower. However, check the specific manufacturer's instructions on the silicone sealant and grout, as some may require 48 hours to fully cure.

Why is my grout cracking?

Cracking usually indicates movement in the substrate (the wall itself) or that the adhesive wasn't fully set before grouting. In corners, grout often cracks because silicone sealant should have been used instead to allow for natural expansion.