Install floor tiles.

However, the success of a tiling project relies heavily on what lies beneath the surface. From ensuring the subfloor is perfectly level to selecting the right adhesive for your specific tile type, professional installation prevents common issues like cracking, "lippage" (uneven edges), and grout failure.

What Does the Work Involve?

• Site Assessment: Inspecting the subfloor (concrete or timber) for moisture, stability, and levelness.
• Subfloor Preparation: Removing old flooring, applying self-levelling compound, or installing overboard (plywood or cement boards) to create a rigid base.
• Setting Out: Measuring the room to find the central starting point, ensuring "cuts" at the edges are symmetrical and aesthetically pleasing.
• Tile Cutting: Using manual rail cutters or electric wet saws to fit tiles around door frames, pipes, and skirting.
• Fixing: Applying the correct grade of flexible adhesive and laying tiles with spacers to ensure uniform grout lines.
• Grouting and Cleaning: Filling the joints with grout once the adhesive has set, followed by a thorough clean to remove "grout haze."
• Sealing: Applying protective sealants to natural stone tiles or specific grout types to prevent staining.

Typical Costs

The cost of tiling in the UK is usually calculated per square metre, though many tilers have a minimum day rate for smaller rooms like downstairs WCs. Prices vary based on your location and the complexity of the tile material (natural stone is more expensive to lay than ceramic).

Factors affecting the final quote include the size of the tiles (large format tiles require two-man lifting and more prep), the need for decoupling membranes on wooden floors, and whether old tiles need to be removed and disposed of.

How Long Does It Take?

• Small Bathroom/Cloakroom: 1–2 days (Prep, laying, and grouting).
• Average Kitchen (15-20m²): 3–4 days (Includes subfloor prep and curing time).
• Large Open Plan Area (40m²+): 5–8 days (Complex layouts take significantly longer).
• Drying Times: Most adhesives require 24 hours before they can be walked on or grouted.

DIY or Professional?

While DIY tiling is popular, it is physically demanding and leaves no room for error. Professional tilers have the expensive wet saws required for clean cuts in hard porcelain and the expertise to ensure a floor is "flat" rather than just "level." In the UK, if you are installing electric underfloor heating (UFH) beneath your tiles, a qualified electrician must sign off the final connections to comply with Part P Building Regulations.

Poorly laid tiles are prone to "blown" joints and cracking if the subfloor flexes. Hiring a pro is often cheaper than replacing ruined expensive tiles and starting again.

Choosing the Right Tradesperson

• Check Credentials: Look for members of The Tile Association (TTA), which ensures high standards of workmanship.
• Portfolio: Ask to see photos of "setting out"—specifically how they handle corners and edges.
• Specialism: Check if they have experience with your specific material (e.g., natural marble requires different handling than ceramic).
• Questions to Ask:
  • Will you be using a decoupling membrane (like Ditra) to prevent cracks?
  • Is the waste removal included in the quote?
  • Which grout brand do you recommend for stain resistance?
  • How long do we need to wait before walking on the floor?

UK Regulations

• BS 5385: This is the British Standard for the design and installation of internal and external wall and floor tiling. A professional should work to these standards.
• Slip Resistance: For bathrooms and kitchens, tiles should have an appropriate "R" rating (usually R10 or higher) to meet safety recommendations.
• Wet Room Tanking: If tiling a wet room floor, the area must be fully waterproofed (tanked) according to Building Regs to prevent structural rot.

Common Problems

• Lippage: When one tile edge sits higher than its neighbour, creating a trip hazard and an unsightly finish. Often caused by uneven subfloors or poor technique.
• Cracked Grout: Usually occurs on timber floors where there is too much "bounce" or flex. This is avoided by using flexible adhesive and over-boarding with cement sheets.
• Dot and Dabbing: A "cowboy" technique where adhesive is only put on corners. This leaves voids under the tile, making them incredibly easy to crack if something is dropped.
• Poor Layout: Ending up with a tiny "sliver" of tile against a prominent wall because the room wasn't measured from the centre.

Frequently Asked Questions