Fire door repairs

Maintaining these doors isn't just about aesthetics; it is a legal and functional necessity. Over time, building movement, heavy use, or DIY "fixes" can compromise a door’s integrity, making professional repairs essential to ensure the door performs as intended during an emergency.

What Does the Work Involve?

• Comprehensive Inspection: Checking the door leaf, frame, and hardware against current UK fire safety standards, including measuring gaps (usually 3mm-4mm).
• Seal Replacement: Removing damaged or painted-over intumescent strips and smoke seals and replacing them with correctly sized, fire-rated alternatives.
• Ironmongery Upgrades: Replacing non-compliant hinges, locks, or latches with fire-rated hardware that carries the CE or UKCA mark.
• Closing Mechanism Adjustment: Testing and calibrating the self-closing device to ensure the door reliably latches from any angle without being too difficult to open.
• Glazing Repairs: Replacing cracked or non-fire-rated glass with specialist fire-resistant glazing and appropriate intumescent glazing channels.
• Structural Patching: Using approved fire-rated fillers or timber "lippings" to repair minor damage to the door leaf while maintaining its fire rating.

Typical Costs

The cost of fire door repairs varies significantly based on whether you are simply replacing a seal or if the entire door leaf needs to be swapped out due to warping or damage. Prices below include VAT and reflect current UK market rates for 2025/26.

Total project costs are heavily influenced by the fire rating required (FD60 is more expensive than FD30) and the finish of the door. Bespoke timber veneers or specialist acoustic fire doors will sit at the higher end of the pricing scale.

How Long Does It Take?

• Minor Repairs (Seals/Adjustments): 1–2 hours per door.
• Hardware Replacement (Closers/Hinges): 2–3 hours.
• Full Door Leaf Replacement: 4–6 hours, including "throwing" the door and fitting all ironmongery.
• Multiple Door Maintenance: A specialist can typically service 4–6 doors in a full working day.

DIY or Professional?

While a competent DIYer might be able to fit a standard internal door, fire door repairs should almost always be handled by a professional. Fire doors are regulated safety devices; if a seal is the wrong size or a hinge isn't fire-rated, the door may fail in minutes during a fire.

For landlords and HMO owners, using a certified fire door inspector or installer is often a legal requirement under the Regulatory Reform (Fire Safety) Order 2005 to ensure the property remains compliant and insured.

Choosing the Right Tradesperson

• Look for Accreditation: Seek installers registered with schemes like BM TRADA (Q-Mark) or FIRAS.
• Check Documentation: A professional should provide a data sheet for the door and a certificate of compliance for the work carried out.
• Avoid "General" Handymen: Ensure the person has specific training in fire door maintenance, not just general joinery.

Questions to ask:

• "Are you specifically trained to install and repair FD30/FD60 rated doors?"
• "Will the replacement hardware be CE/UKCA marked and compatible with this specific door's test evidence?"
• "Do you provide a written inspection report upon completion?"

UK Regulations

• Building Regulations Part B: Covers fire safety requirements for new builds and renovations.
• BS 8214: The British Standard code of practice for fire door assemblies.
• The Regulatory Reform (Fire Safety) Order 2005: Places the legal burden on the "Responsible Person" (landlord/owner) to ensure fire doors are fit for purpose.
• Fire Safety (England) Regulations 2022: Requires quarterly checks on fire doors in the common parts of multi-occupied residential buildings over 11 metres.

Common Problems

• Excessive Gaps: If the gap between the door and frame is more than 4mm (or less than 2mm), the door may not perform correctly or may bind during an emergency.
• Painted Seals: Painting over intumescent strips or smoke seals prevents them from expanding in heat, rendered them useless.
• Incorrect Closers: Using a domestic "perko" closer on a door that requires a heavy-duty overhead closer often results in the door failing to latch.
• Non-Fire-Rated Glass: Replacing broken glass with standard 4mm float glass is a major safety risk; only specialist fire glass must be used.
• Wedging Doors Open: While not a repair issue, this causes warping over time and damages the closing mechanism.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I paint my fire door?

Yes, you can paint the door leaf and frame, but you must never paint over the intumescent strips, smoke seals, or the fire rating label on the top or side of the door. Use standard decorative paint; fire-retardant paint is usually only required for specific wall surfaces, not the door itself.

How often should fire doors be inspected?

In a standard domestic setting, an annual check is recommended. For HMOs or communal areas in flats, the law often requires 6-monthly inspections, while high-rise buildings over 11m require quarterly checks of communal doors.

Do I need to replace the whole frame if the door is damaged?

Not necessarily. If the frame is structurally sound and securely fixed to the wall, a specialist can often "re-line" the frame or simply replace the door leaf. However, if the frame is charred, warped, or incorrectly installed, a full replacement is required.

What is the difference between a fire seal and a smoke seal?

An intumescent fire seal expands when exposed to heat to seal the gap between the door and frame. A smoke seal (often a brush or rubber fin) stops cold smoke from passing through before the fire gets hot enough to activate the intumescent strip. Most modern fire doors use a combined seal.

How do I know if my door is a genuine fire door?

Look for a colour-coded plug (usually on the hinge edge) or a label on the top edge of the door. FD30 doors are typically 44mm thick, whereas standard internal doors are 35mm. You should also see fire-rated hinges (usually three) and a self-closing device.