Wooden doors are a classic feature of UK homes, offering natural insulation and timeless aesthetic appeal. However, exposure to the British weather, seasonal te...
Repairing a high-quality wooden door is often more cost-effective and environmentally friendly than a full replacement. Whether it is a Victorian front door requiring restoration or an internal door that no longer latches, professional repair ensures your home remains secure and draught-free.
What Does the Work Involve?
- Initial Assessment: Inspecting the door, frame, and threshold for signs of "wet rot," "dry rot," or structural warping.
- Hardware Check: Testing hinges, locks, and handles to ensure they are aligned and functioning correctly.
- Timber Treatment: Removing soft, rotten wood and applying wood hardener or high-performance resin fillers.
- Resizing and Planing: Trimming the edges of doors that have swollen or dropped to ensure a smooth swing and tight seal.
- Sanding and Refinishing: Stripping back old paint or varnish to provide a smooth surface for new protective coatings.
- Weatherproofing: Replacing worn draught excluders and checking the "drip bar" to prevent water ingress.
Typical Costs
| Item | Low £ | High £ | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Call-out / Minimum Charge | £80 | £150 | Covers the first hour of assessment/labour. |
| Minor Hinge/Lock Adjustment | £60 | £120 | Simple fixes for sticking or non-latching doors. |
| Rot Repair (Resin/Filler) | £150 | £350 | Includes materials and sanding for small sections. |
| Full Door Sand & Refinish | £250 | £500 | Labour-intensive stripping and multi-coat painting. |
| Timber Splice (New Wood Section) | £200 | £450 | Cutting out large rot sections and joining new timber. |
Total costs are heavily influenced by the type of wood; hardwood doors (like Oak or Mahogany) require more expensive materials and specialist care than standard softwood. Prices in London and the South East typically carry a 15-20% premium due to higher labour rates.
How Long Does It Take?
- Hinge adjustments or planing: 1–2 hours.
- Minor rot repairs and filling: 3–5 hours (including resin curing time).
- Complete door restoration: 1–3 days, depending on the number of coats of paint or varnish required.
- Frame repairs: 4–6 hours if the threshold or "jamb" needs partial replacement.
DIY or Professional?
Minor tasks like oiling hinges, light sanding, or applying a fresh coat of varnish are well within the reach of a confident DIYer. However, structural repairs or fixing "dropped" heavy external doors should be left to a professional joiner.
Warning: If you are repairing a fire door (common in flats or HMOs), any work must maintain its fire-rating integrity. Incorrectly planing a fire door or using the wrong seals can render it illegal and unsafe, potentially voiding your home insurance.
Choosing the Right Tradesperson
- Look for a qualified joiner or carpenter with experience in "timber restoration" rather than just general maintenance.
- Check for memberships in trade bodies such as the British Woodworking Federation (BWF) or Institute of Carpenters.
- Red Flags: Avoid tradespeople who suggest using standard "polyfilla" for external rot repairs; these will fail within months.
- Question 1: Do you use two-part resin fillers for rot, or are you splicing in new timber?
- Question 2: Will you be using dust extraction while sanding inside my home?
- Question 3: Can you provide a guarantee for the weatherproofing or finish applied?
UK Regulations
- Part L (Conservation of Fuel and Power): If you replace more than 50% of an external door, it may need to meet modern thermal efficiency standards.
- Part Q (Security): Repairs to main entrance doors should not compromise the security of the property; replacement locks should meet BS 3621.
- Listed Buildings: If your home is listed, you must get Listed Building Consent before changing the appearance, material, or colour of your external doors.
Common Problems
- Trapped Moisture: Painting over damp wood is the most common mistake, leading to the new finish peeling within weeks.
- Using Interior Materials: Using interior-grade fillers or glues on an external door will cause the repair to crumble during the first frost.
- Ignoring the Root Cause: Fixing a rotten bottom rail without clearing blocked gutters or improving drainage will lead to the rot returning.
- Over-Planing: Removing too much wood to stop a door sticking in winter can leave massive gaps and draughts when the wood shrinks in summer.
Frequently Asked Questions
Why does my wooden door stick more in the winter?
Wood is a hygroscopic material, meaning it absorbs moisture from the damp winter air. This causes the fibres to expand (swell), making the door too large for its frame. A joiner can "ease" the door by planing the specific areas that are catching.
Is it possible to repair a door that has significant rot?
Yes, provided the structural core is still sound. Joiners can use a technique called "splicing," where the rotten section is cut out and a new piece of matching timber is glued and screwed into place, then sanded for a seamless finish.
Can I change the locks during a door repair?
Absolutely. This is the ideal time to upgrade to "Insurance Approved" locks (BS 3621). A joiner can mortice out the door to fit more secure mechanisms while they are already working on the unit.
How can I tell if I have dry rot or wet rot?
Wet rot stays confined to the damp area and feels soft or spongy. Dry rot is more serious; it can spread through masonry and often features a white, cotton-like fungus or "fruiting bodies." Dry rot requires immediate professional intervention.
Will repairing my door improve my energy bills?
Yes. Properly realigning a door and installing new perimeter draught seals or a "brush strip" at the bottom can significantly reduce heat loss and eliminate cold spots in your hallway.
This guide was written with AI assistance and is intended for general information only. Prices are estimates based on UK averages and may vary by region. Always get at least three quotes and consult a qualified professional before starting any work.
