Hang a new door.

For UK homeowners, professionally hung doors are essential for privacy, draughtproofing, and fire safety. Whether you are upgrading to solid oak for aesthetic reasons or installing fire-rated doors to meet building regulations, a skilled carpenter ensures the finish is seamless and the operation is effortless.

What Does the Work Involve?

• Survey and Measurement: The carpenter checks the existing frame for "plumb" (vertical) and "square." They measure the height, width, and depth to determine how much the new door needs to be trimmed.
• Removal and Preparation: The old door is removed. The frame is inspected for damage, and old hinge recesses may be filled or cleaned up to accept new hardware.
• Scribing and Trimming: The new door is "offered up" to the frame. The carpenter marks and planes the edges—often at a slight angle (leading edge)—to ensure a tight fit that doesn't rub against the frame.
• Hinge Mortising: Precise recesses are cut into the door edge and the frame using a chisel or a router to ensure the hinges sit flush.
• Hardware Installation: Holes are drilled and mortises cut for the latch, lock, and spindle. Handles and rose plates are then aligned and secured.
• Final Adjustments: The door is hung and checked for "swing." The carpenter ensures it stays open where positioned and latches firmly without needing to be forced.

Typical Costs

Costs for door hanging vary based on the door type and your location in the UK. Labour rates in London and the South East are typically 20-30% higher than the national average.

The total price is heavily influenced by the door's material; solid wood doors take longer to plane and mortise than lightweight honeycomb doors. If the door frame (lining) also needs replacing, expect to add £150–£250 per opening for labour and materials.

How Long Does It Take?

• Standard Internal Door: 1.5 to 2.5 hours per door.
• FD30 Fire Door: 3 to 4 hours (due to weight and the need for intumescent strips and closers).
• External Front/Back Door: 4 to 7 hours (includes weatherproofing and high-security locks).
• Whole House (6-8 doors): 2 to 3 days for a single carpenter.

DIY or Professional?

While hanging a door is a popular DIY project, it is notoriously difficult to master. A single over-zealous plane stroke can ruin an expensive door, leaving a permanent gap. Professional carpenters have the specialized jigs, routers, and sharp chisels required for a "factory finish."

Note: If you are installing fire doors (FD30 or FD60), professional installation is highly recommended to ensure the door meets life-safety standards. Incorrectly fitted fire doors may invalidate your home insurance.

Choosing the Right Tradesperson

Look for a qualified carpenter or joiner with a proven track record. While door hanging is a bread-and-butter task, the quality of finish varies significantly between a general handyman and a specialist joiner.

• Qualifications: Look for City & Guilds or NVQ Level 2/3 in Site Carpentry.
• Red Flags: Avoid anyone who suggests using only two hinges for a heavy solid wood door or someone who doesn't check the floor clearance for new carpets.
• Questions to Ask:
  • Do you use a router and jig for the hinges, or do you cut them by hand?
  • Does your quote include the fitting of all ironmongery (latches and handles)?
  • Will you trim the bottom of the doors if I have new carpets fitted later?
  • Are you experienced in fitting intumescent strips for fire doors?

UK Regulations

• Building Regs Part B (Fire Safety): Fire doors are mandatory in certain areas, such as doors leading to an integral garage or in houses with three or more storeys.
• Building Regs Part M (Access): New builds or major renovations must ensure door widths are sufficient for wheelchair access.
• Part L (Thermal Performance): External doors must meet specific U-values (thermal efficiency) to comply with energy conservation rules.
• Fire Certification: Upon request, your carpenter should be able to provide evidence that fire doors have been installed according to the manufacturer's global assessment.

Common Problems

• Door Binding: The door rubs against the frame or floor. This is usually caused by the frame being out of square or the door expanding due to humidity.
• Hinge Bind: If hinge recesses are cut too deep, the door will "spring" back when you try to close it, putting stress on the screws.
• Latch Misalignment: The door won't stay shut because the latch bolt doesn't line up with the strike plate on the frame.
• Veneer Splitting: Using blunt tools on modern veneered doors can cause the finish to chip or "blow," which is nearly impossible to repair invisibly.

Frequently Asked Questions