Repair a wooden door.

Repairing a high-quality timber door is usually more cost-effective and sustainable than a full replacement. Whether it is a sticking internal door or a weathered Victorian front door, professional carpentry can restore both functionality and security to your home.

What Does the Work Involve?

• Initial Assessment: Inspecting the door, frame, and threshold for structural integrity, alignment issues, or timber rot.
• Hardware Removal: Removing handles, locks, and hinges to allow for unobstructed repairs or resizing.
• Timber Repairs: Cutting out "soft" rotted sections and splicing in new timber (Dutchman repairs) or using high-quality wood fillers.
• Realignment: Planing the edges of the door if it is sticking due to seasonal swelling or floor movement.
• Hinge Recessing: Re-cutting or deepening hinge seats to fix "dropped" doors that scrape the carpet or frame.
• Weatherproofing: Replacing worn draught excluders and ensuring external doors meet the frame tightly to prevent heat loss.

Typical Costs

Costs are influenced by the timber species; repairing a bespoke solid oak door requires more specialised skill and expensive materials than a standard pine internal door. Emergency call-outs for secured entry repairs will also command a premium.

How Long Does It Take?

• Sticking door adjustment: 45 minutes to 1.5 hours.
• Replacing hinges and realigning: 1 to 2 hours.
• Patching rot and timber splicing: 3 to 5 hours (allowing for adhesive cure times).
• Full frame and door overhaul: 1 to 2 days.

DIY or Professional?

While basic tasks like oiling hinges or light sanding are suitable for DIY, structural repairs should be left to a professional carpenter. Hanging a door or splicing timber requires precision tools and an understanding of grain direction to prevent future splitting.

Warning: If you are repairing a fire door (common in flats or between a garage and a house), any work must be performed by a competent person to ensure the door retains its fire-rating integrity under UK Building Regulations.

Choosing the Right Tradesperson

• Qualifications: Look for an NVQ Level 2 or 3 in Site Carpentry or Bench Joinery.
• Specialism: Ask if they specialise in "first fix" (structural) or "second fix" (finishing) carpentry.
• Red Flags: Avoid tradespeople who suggest using "car body filler" for large structural timber repairs instead of proper wood splicing.
• Questions to Ask:
  • Do you have experience with heritage or listed building door restorations?
  • Will you use dust extraction equipment while sanding indoors?
  • Is the hardware you provide covered by a manufacturer’s warranty?

UK Regulations

• Part L (Conservation of Fuel and Power): External door repairs should not degrade the thermal performance of the dwelling.
• Part B (Fire Safety): Internal fire doors must have specific gaps (usually 3mm) and use intumescent strips; DIY trimming can invalidate their safety rating.
• Listed Buildings: If your home is listed, you may need Listed Building Consent for significant repairs or any changes to the door’s appearance.

Common Problems

• Seasonal Swelling: Timber expands in winter humidity; a door trimmed in winter may have excessive gaps in summer.
• Dropped Hinges: Over time, screws can pull loose from the frame, causing the door to sag and damage the floor.
• Wet Rot: Common at the base of external frames where water pools; if not cut out, it will spread through the entire structure.
• Painted-over Hardware: Years of thick paint can prevent latches and hinges from operating smoothly, often mistaken for structural failure.

Frequently Asked Questions