Install a resin floor.

For UK homeowners, resin is particularly popular for modern kitchen extensions, converted garages, and utility rooms. While the finish looks effortless, the installation is a precise chemical process that requires expert handling to ensure a long-lasting bond with the subfloor.

What Does the Work Involve?

• Substrate Assessment: Testing the existing floor for moisture levels (must be below 75% relative humidity) and structural integrity.
• Surface Preparation: Mechanical grinding or shot-blasting to "key" the surface and remove old paint, oil, or laitance.
• Repair Work: Filling cracks, holes, or joints with resin mortar to ensure a perfectly flat starting point.
• Priming: Applying a high-quality primer to seal the substrate and prevent air bubbles from rising into the main resin coat.
• Base Coat Application: Pouring and spreading the main body of the resin (Epoxy or Polyurethane) using notched squeegees and spiked rollers.
• Decorative Additives: Incorporating flakes, metallic pigments, or quartz if a specific aesthetic is required.
• Top Coat/Sealer: Applying a final UV-stable or anti-slip clear coat to protect the floor from scratching and yellowing.

Typical Costs

Pricing for resin flooring is heavily influenced by the size of the area; smaller residential spaces often carry a higher price per square metre due to the minimum labour and material requirements for each visit.

Costs are driven by the choice of material (PU vs Epoxy), the condition of your concrete slab, and the number of layers required. Always check if quotes include VAT and the cost of waste disposal for old floor coverings.

How Long Does It Take?

• Preparation & Priming: 1 day. This is the loudest and dustiest part of the process.
• Main Coat Application: 1 day. The area must be kept strictly dust-free during this time.
• Top Coat & Curing: 1–2 days. While the floor may be "touch dry," it often needs longer to fully harden.
• Full Chemical Cure: 5–7 days. Avoid moving heavy furniture or parking cars on the surface until this period has passed.

DIY or Professional?

Resin flooring is not a recommended DIY project for homeowners. The materials are time-sensitive; once the resin and hardener are mixed, you often have less than 20 minutes to apply it before it begins to set.

Professional installers use industrial diamond grinders to prep the floor—a step that is impossible to replicate with handheld domestic tools but is essential for preventing the floor from peeling.

Furthermore, managing "pot life" and ensuring a level finish without bubbles requires specialised equipment like spiked shoes and rollers. A failed DIY resin floor is incredibly expensive to grind off and start again.

Choosing the Right Tradesperson

• Look for members of FeRFA (The Resin Flooring Association), the leading UK body for the industry.
• Ask to see a portfolio of residential work; industrial installers may not have the eye for detail required for a domestic kitchen finish.
• Questions to ask:
  • How do you test for moisture in the subfloor before starting?
  • Is the top coat UV-stable (to prevent yellowing in sunlight)?
  • What slip-resistance rating (PTV) will the finished floor achieve?
  • Do you provide a warranty against delamination?

UK Regulations

• HSE Slip Resistance: Floors in "wet" areas like kitchens should ideally meet a Pendulum Test Value (PTV) of 36+ to be considered low-slip.
• Part L (Building Regs): If you are installing resin over new underfloor heating, the system must comply with thermal efficiency standards.
• VOC Compliance: Ensure the products used meet UK REACH standards for indoor air quality.
• Data Sheets: Your installer should provide Technical Data Sheets (TDS) and Safety Data Sheets (SDS) for the chemicals used.

Common Problems

• Delamination: The resin peels away from the concrete because the floor wasn't ground properly or was too damp.
• Bubbling/Pinholing: "Outgassing" occurs when air escapes from the concrete into the wet resin; this is usually caused by failing to prime the floor correctly.
• Yellowing: Standard epoxy resins can turn yellow when exposed to sunlight through large bifold doors; specify a UV-stable Polyurethane topcoat to avoid this.
• Amine Blush: A cloudy or sticky film on the surface caused by applying resin in high humidity or fluctuating temperatures.

Frequently Asked Questions