Restore a wood floor.

A high-quality restoration doesn't just improve aesthetics; it provides a durable, hygienic surface that can last for decades. In the UK's damp climate, correctly sealed wood also helps protect the structural integrity of your floorboards against moisture and wear.

What Does the Work Involve?

• Site Assessment: Testing for moisture, checking board stability, and identifying the wood species to select the correct grit sequence.
• Preparation: Punching down protruding nails and securing loose boards to ensure a level sanding surface.
• Coarse Sanding: Using a heavy-duty belt sander to strip away old varnish, deep scratches, and stubborn stains.
• Fine Sanding: Progressing through finer grit papers to create a perfectly smooth, "glass-like" finish.
• Gap Filling: Mixing collected fine sawdust with a resin to fill cracks between boards for a seamless look and improved draught-proofing.
• Finishing: Applying multiple coats of professional-grade lacquer, hard-wax oil, or stain to protect the timber.

Typical Costs

Pricing for wood floor restoration is usually calculated per square metre (m²), though many contractors have a minimum day rate for smaller rooms like hallways or bathrooms.

Costs are influenced by the floor's current condition, the type of wood (hardwoods like oak take longer than softwoods), and your choice of finish. Prices in London and the South East typically sit at the higher end of these ranges.

How Long Does It Take?

• Small Room (e.g., Bedroom 12m²): 1 full day of labour, plus 12–24 hours drying time.
• Large Through-Lounge (30m²): 2 to 3 days depending on the amount of repair work required.
• Full Ground Floor: 4 to 6 days, often involving phased sanding to allow for furniture movement.
• Drying Times: Lacquer is usually touch-dry in 2-4 hours; hard-wax oil can take 8-12 hours per coat.

Pro Tip: Most finishes require 72 hours to fully "cure." Avoid placing heavy furniture or rugs on the floor during this window to prevent permanent marks.

DIY or Professional?

While hiring a floor sander from a local tool hire shop is possible, it is rarely recommended for beginners. Professional "belt" sanders are extremely powerful and can easily gouge permanent "trench" marks into your floor if held still for even a second.

Furthermore, professional contractors use industrial dust extraction systems that are 98-99% dust-free. DIY machines often create a significant amount of fine airborne dust that can settle in soft furnishings and electronics throughout the entire house.

Choosing the Right Tradesperson

• Check Equipment: Ask if they use "continuous belt" sanders and HEPA-filtered dust extraction.
• Portfolio: Look for "before and after" photos specifically of the wood type you have (e.g., parquet vs. pine boards).
• Insurance: Ensure they hold Public Liability Insurance to cover any accidental damage to skirting boards or fixtures.
• Samples: A good pro will sand a small patch and apply 2-3 finish samples so you can see the actual colour on your wood.

UK Regulations

• VOC Compliance: All finishes used must comply with UK Volatile Organic Compound (VOC) limits to ensure indoor air quality.
• Waste Disposal: Sanding creates a large volume of combustible dust; contractors should have a plan for safe, legal disposal of wood waste.
• Listed Buildings: If your property is Grade I or II listed, you may need "Listed Building Consent" before altering the finish of original historic floors.

Common Problems

• Chatter Marks: Horizontal ripples caused by poorly maintained sanding drums or incorrect technique.
• Swirl Marks: Circular scratches left by "edging" machines that weren't properly blended into the main floor area.
• Bleed-Back: Oil or resin seeping back out of gaps after the finish has been applied, usually due to high humidity.
• Incompatible Finishes: Applying a water-based lacquer over an old oil-based stain can cause the finish to peel and flake within weeks.

Frequently Asked Questions