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Install a prepayment meter.

Prepay meter fit or swap — by a MOCOPA-registered electrician with supplier coordination.

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Inadequate Tails

Older properties often have 16mm tails, but modern 100A supplies usually require 25mm cables.

Access Issues

Meters hidden behind heavy furniture or built-in cupboards can significantly increase labour time.

Communication Errors

Smart payment meters may fail to connect to the network if installed in a basement with poor signal.

Tamper Seals

If an electrician finds broken seals on the main fuse, they are legally required to report it to the network operator.

Costs & timeline

Know what it costs. Know when it ends.

Indicative UK ranges and what affects price.

Cost range

By job type

Inc. VAT · 2026
Source: NMT quotes
Call-out FeeCovers travel and the first hour of labour.
£80–£150
Labour (Hourly)Varies by region (London/SE is higher).
£60–£100/hr
Private Sub-Meter UnitMID-approved meters for billing purposes.
£120–£350
Meter Tails & MaterialsCables, seals, and protective trunking.
£40–£90
Total Project CostHigher end includes consumer unit upgrades.
£250–£1.2k
!

Quote spread is typically ± 18% — always get 3 quotes.

At a glance

The Electrician briefing.

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Payment meter installation infographic
Video guide

Electrician explained

While energy suppliers often install their own meters for billing, private electricians are frequently called to install secondary "sub-meters." These allow property owners to monitor and bill electricity usage for specific areas of a building independently from the main supply.

What Does the Work Involve?

  • Site Assessment: Inspecting the current meter position, consumer unit, and cable thickness (meter tails).
  • Safe Isolation: Turning off the mains supply and testing to ensure the circuit is dead before work begins.
  • Removal & Fitting: Removing the old unit and mounting the new digital or smart payment meter.
  • Wiring: Connecting the meter tails to the consumer unit and securing them with proper trunking or a meter box.
  • Testing: Verifying earth continuity, RCD trip times, and ensuring the meter records usage accurately.
  • Commissioning: Programming the unit, setting tariffs (for sub-meters), and demonstrating how to top up.

Typical Costs

Item Low £ High £ Notes
Call-out Fee £80 £150 Covers travel and the first hour of labour.
Labour (Hourly) £60 £100 Varies by region (London/SE is higher).
Private Sub-Meter Unit £120 £350 MID-approved meters for billing purposes.
Meter Tails & Materials £40 £90 Cables, seals, and protective trunking.
Total Project Cost £250 £1,200 Higher end includes consumer unit upgrades.

Prices are influenced by the complexity of your existing wiring. If your consumer unit is outdated or the meter tails are too thin for modern standards, these must be replaced to comply with safety regulations.

How Long Does It Take?

  • Standard Meter Swap: 1–2 hours for a straightforward replacement in an accessible location.
  • New Sub-Meter Installation: 2–4 hours if new cabling needs to be run from the main distribution board.
  • Complex Upgrades: 4–8 hours if the job requires a new consumer unit or significant remedial wiring.

DIY or Professional?

This is strictly a job for a qualified professional. Working with mains electricity is life-threatening if mishandled, and illegal tampering with a supplier's meter is a criminal offence.

Warning: Any electrical work in "wet zones" (kitchens/bathrooms) or involving a new circuit must comply with Part P of the Building Regulations.

Choosing the Right Tradesperson

  • Check Credentials: Ensure they are registered with a UK competent person scheme like NICEIC, NAPIT, or ELECSA.
  • Verify Insurance: They should hold valid Public Liability Insurance (minimum £2 million).
  • Red Flags: Be wary of anyone who refuses to provide a Minor Works Certificate or offers to "bypass" a meter.

Questions to ask:

  • Are you Part P registered and can you self-certify this work?
  • Is the meter you are installing MID-approved (required for legal billing of tenants)?
  • Will you notify the DNO (Distribution Network Operator) if the main service fuse needs to be pulled?

UK Regulations

  • BS 7671 (Wiring Regs): All work must meet the current 18th Edition standards for safety and earthing.
  • MID (Measuring Instruments Directive): If you are charging a tenant based on the meter readings, the meter must be MID-approved.
  • Part P: Covers electrical safety in dwellings; you should receive a compliance certificate after the job.

Common Problems

  • Inadequate Tails: Older properties often have 16mm tails, but modern 100A supplies usually require 25mm cables.
  • Access Issues: Meters hidden behind heavy furniture or built-in cupboards can significantly increase labour time.
  • Communication Errors: Smart payment meters may fail to connect to the network if installed in a basement with poor signal.
  • Tamper Seals: If an electrician finds broken seals on the main fuse, they are legally required to report it to the network operator.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I buy my own meter for the electrician to fit?

You can, but it must be MID-approved if it's for billing tenants. Most electricians prefer to supply the unit themselves to ensure it meets current UK safety standards and comes with a warranty.

Is a payment meter more expensive to run?

Generally, prepayment tariffs are slightly higher than direct debit rates. However, for landlords, they prevent the risk of tenants leaving behind unpaid utility bills.

What is a "sub-meter" vs a "supplier meter"?

A supplier meter is owned by companies like British Gas or Octopus; only they or their agents can change it. A sub-meter is a private unit installed after the main meter to track usage in a specific room or annex.

Do I need to tell my energy supplier if I install a private meter?

No, you do not need permission to install a private sub-meter as long as it is installed after the primary supplier meter and does not interfere with the main billing equipment.

Will my power be turned off during installation?

Yes, the electrician will need to isolate the supply. This usually results in a total power cut lasting between 30 minutes and 2 hours, depending on the complexity of the wiring.

This guide was written with AI assistance and is intended for general information only. Prices are estimates based on UK averages and may vary by region. Always get at least three quotes and consult a qualified professional before starting any work.

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