Install artificial grass.

A professional installation is far more than just rolling out a green carpet. It requires significant groundworks and precise engineering to ensure the lawn drains correctly and remains level for its 15-to-20-year lifespan.

What Does the Work Involve?

• Site Clearance: Removing existing turf, weeds, and surface debris to a depth of roughly 50mm to 100mm.
• Sub-base Preparation: Installing and compacting a layer of MOT Type 1 or crushed stone to create a stable, free-draining foundation.
• Edging Installation: Fixing timber, composite, or metal edging around the perimeter to secure the grass and prevent base migration.
• Laying the Gritting Layer: Applying a fine layer of sharp sand or granite dust, levelled and compacted to provide a smooth finish.
• Membrane Fitting: Laying a heavy-duty geotextile weed membrane to prevent growth while allowing water to pass through.
• Grass Installation: Carefully rolling out the turf, ensuring the "pile" or grain faces the house for the best aesthetic.
• Seaming and Securing: Joining sections using specialist outdoor adhesive and jointing tape, then pinning the edges securely.
• Infill and Brushing: Spreading kiln-dried silica sand across the surface and using a power brush to stand the fibres upright and add weight.

Typical Costs

The cost of artificial grass installation is largely driven by the quality of the turf selected and the complexity of the groundworks required. Factors such as restricted access (e.g., carrying materials through a terraced house) or the need for significant drainage corrections will increase the final quote.

Pro Tip: Always ask for the "total project price" rather than just the price per square metre. Hidden costs like waste disposal and edging can add 20-30% to a basic quote.

How Long Does It Take?

The duration of the project depends on the size of the garden and the volume of soil that needs to be excavated manually or by machine.

• Small Balcony or Patio (under 15m²): 1 day. Usually involves a simple "overlay" on a hard surface.
• Average Domestic Garden (30m² - 50m²): 2–3 days. Includes full excavation, sub-base compaction, and finishing.
• Large or Complex Lawns (70m²+): 4–6 days. May require multiple skips and significant mechanical levelling.

DIY or Professional?

While DIY is possible, it is physically demanding work. Excavating 50mm of soil from a 40m² garden generates roughly 4 to 5 tonnes of waste that must be moved by hand. Without a heavy-duty plate compactor, the ground will eventually sink, leading to puddles and an uneven surface.

Professionals use power brushes to ensure the grass looks natural and "alive." A DIY finish often results in visible seams and flat-looking grass. Furthermore, professionals understand SUDS (Sustainable Urban Drainage Systems) regulations, ensuring your new lawn doesn't cause flooding in your or your neighbour's garden.

Choosing the Right Tradesperson

Not all landscapers specialise in artificial turf. Look for installers who can demonstrate a portfolio of specific synthetic grass projects rather than general gardening.

• Check Qualifications: Look for installers who are part of manufacturer-approved schemes (e.g., Namgrass, NeoGrass, or LazyLawn).
• Waste Carrier Licence: Ensure they have an Environment Agency licence to remove your old soil and turf legally.
• Public Liability Insurance: They should have a minimum of £1 million in coverage.
• Red Flags: Avoid anyone suggesting laying grass directly onto soil or using "cheap" indoor-style carpet.

Questions to ask:

• How many tonnes of sub-base material are you planning to use?
• Will you be using a granite dust or sharp sand finish?
• What is the manufacturer's UV warranty on the grass fibres?
• How do you secure the joins to prevent them from opening in summer?

UK Regulations

In most cases, installing artificial grass in a residential back garden does not require planning permission. However, there are standards to consider:

• Permeability: Under UK building guidelines, surfaces should be permeable to prevent excessive runoff into the sewage system. Ensure your installer uses a porous sub-base.
• Front Gardens: If you are replacing more than 5m² of a front garden, you must ensure the surface is permeable or that water is directed to a lawn or border to drain naturally.
• Waste Disposal: The "Duty of Care" legislation requires that all waste removed from your property is handled by a licensed carrier. Always ask for a waste transfer note.

Common Problems

• Sunken Patches: Caused by poor sub-base compaction or using the wrong type of stone. This usually manifests after the first heavy winter rain.
• Visible Seams: If the "grain" of the two pieces isn't perfectly aligned or the gap between the two pieces is too wide, the join will look like a visible line.
• Weeds at the Edges: Often occurs if the membrane wasn't tucked into the edging or if the perimeter wasn't treated with weed killer.
• Pet Odours: In households with dogs, a standard install can trap ammonia. This is avoided by using a "pet-pro" system with specialized drainage and zeolite infill.
• Melting: High-quality artificial grass is durable, but reflection from low-emissivity (Low-E) glass windows can occasionally concentrate sunlight and melt the fibres.

Frequently Asked Questions