Front garden returfing

Professional returfing involves far more than simply laying green carpet. Success depends entirely on the preparation of the soil beneath, ensuring proper drainage and nutrient levels so your new lawn thrives for years rather than weeks.

What Does the Work Involve?

• Site Clearance: Stripping away the old, exhausted turf and removing deep-rooted perennial weeds like dandelions or docks.
• Ground Preparation: Rotovating or digging over the subsoil to relieve compaction and improve drainage.
• Soil Amendment: Adding a high-quality sandy-loam topsoil (usually 25mm to 50mm deep) to create a level, nutrient-rich seedbed.
• Levelling and Firming: Raking the area to a fine tilth and "heeling in" to ensure there are no soft spots that could cause dips later.
• Laying the Turf: Laying fresh rolls in a staggered, brick-work pattern to eliminate long seams, ensuring tight joints without overlapping.
• Finishing: Trimming edges for a crisp finish against paths or flowerbeds and applying a light watering to settle the roots.

Typical Costs

Prices for returfing vary based on the quality of the turf selected and the amount of preparation required. For 2025/26, expect to pay the following for a professional installation including materials and VAT.

Labour costs typically range from £150 to £250 per person per day. Total costs increase if your garden has restricted access (e.g., no side gate) or requires significant drainage corrections before laying.

How Long Does It Take?

• Small Front Gardens (under 20m²): 4–6 hours. This is usually a one-day job for a single landscaper.
• Medium Gardens (20m² – 60m²): 1 full day. This typically requires a two-person team to strip and prep efficiently.
• Large or Complex Sites: 2+ days. Extra time is needed for significant levelling, installing edging, or hand-carrying materials through a house.

DIY or Professional?

While laying turf is physically demanding, many homeowners attempt it as a DIY project. However, the "strip and flip" method often fails because the ground isn't properly prepared or levelled, leading to a bumpy, patchy lawn.

Professional landscapers have the machinery to rotovate hard ground and the expertise to ensure the lawn is perfectly level with your driveway and paths.

If you choose the DIY route, ensure you have a plan for the old turf. It is heavy, holds moisture, and cannot usually be put in standard garden waste bins in large quantities.

Choosing the Right Tradesperson

• Check Credentials: Look for members of the British Association of Landscape Industries (BALI) or the Association of Professional Landscapers (APL).
• Waste Licence: Ensure they hold a valid Environment Agency Waste Carrier Licence to legally dispose of your old lawn.
• Portfolio: Ask for photos of lawns they laid 6–12 months ago, not just on the day of installation.
• Questions to Ask:
  • Is the topsoil "screened" to remove stones and debris?
  • What type of turf are you using (e.g., hard-wearing rye or ornamental fescue)?
  • Does the quote include the cost of waste disposal and skip hire?
  • Will you provide a guide for first-month aftercare?

UK Regulations

• Waste Disposal: Under the Environmental Protection Act, you are responsible for ensuring your waste is disposed of by a licensed carrier.
• Water Restrictions: Newly laid turf requires heavy watering. Check for local hosepipe bans, though "newly laid turf" often has a short-term exemption (usually 28 days) in many water company areas.
• Permeable Surfaces: While turf is naturally permeable, if you are replacing part of your lawn with a driveway or hardstanding, you must adhere to SuDS (Sustainable Drainage Systems) regulations.

Common Problems

• Gapping: If turf is not laid tightly or dries out, the rolls shrink, leaving brown gaps. This is avoided by "butting" the edges firmly during installation.
• Yellowing: Often caused by turf sitting on a pallet for too long before being laid. Turf is a living product and should be laid within 24 hours of delivery.
• Poor Drainage: Laying turf directly onto compacted clay will lead to waterlogging and "squelchy" patches in winter.
• Scalping: If the ground isn't levelled correctly, your mower will cut too low on high spots, killing the grass.

Frequently Asked Questions

When is the best time of year to returf?

Spring (March to May) and Autumn (September to November) are ideal. The weather is cool and damp, which helps roots establish without the risk of drying out in summer heat or freezing in winter frost.

How soon can I walk on my new lawn?

You should avoid walking on new turf for at least 2 to 3 weeks. Heavy use before the roots have knitted into the soil can cause indentations and prevent the turf from establishing properly.

How often should I water the new turf?

In the first two weeks, you must water it every evening (unless it rains heavily). The water needs to soak through the turf into the soil beneath. Check by lifting a corner to see if the underside is damp.

When should I first mow the new grass?

Wait until the grass is about 2 inches high and the roots are firmly attached (test by gently tugging the grass). Set your mower to its highest setting for the first few cuts—never remove more than one-third of the blade length.

My front garden is very shady; will turf grow?

Standard "Stadium" or "Lawn" turf often struggles in heavy shade. Ask your landscaper for a specialist "Shade Tolerant" mix, which uses specific grass species like Fescues that require less direct sunlight.