Lawn turfing and garden design

In the UK’s temperate climate, successful landscaping relies on meticulous ground preparation and choosing the right species of grass for your specific light levels. A professional landscaper ensures that the "invisible" work—such as drainage and soil nutrition—is handled correctly before a single roll of turf is laid.

What Does the Work Involve?

• Site Survey & Design: Measuring the area, assessing sun/shade patterns, and identifying any drainage issues or underground services.
• Site Clearance: Removing existing grass, weeds, and debris using a turf cutter or herbicide if necessary.
• Ground Preparation: Rotavating the soil to a depth of 100-150mm to relieve compaction and ensure healthy root growth.
• Levelling & Grading: Raking the area to create a smooth, firm surface, often incorporating high-quality screened topsoil.
• Turf Laying: Installing fresh, nursery-grown rolls in a "brickwork" pattern to avoid long seams, ensuring tight joints.
• Finishing Touches: Trimming edges for a clean look, applying a pre-turf fertiliser, and the all-important first deep soak.

Typical Costs

The cost of turfing and garden design varies significantly based on the quality of the turf selected and the amount of preparation required. Professional landscapers typically quote per square metre for turfing, while design fees are often a fixed project cost.

Note: Prices usually include VAT at 20%. Factors such as poor site access (e.g., having to carry materials through a terraced house) will increase the labour costs significantly.

How Long Does It Take?

• Small Urban Lawn (up to 40m2): 1 day for clearance, prep, and laying.
• Medium Family Garden (50-100m2): 2–3 days, depending on the volume of soil to be moved.
• Full Garden Redesign: 2–4 weeks, including hard landscaping (patios/decking) and planting schemes.
• Establishment Period: You must stay off the new lawn for 2–3 weeks while the roots "knit" into the soil.

DIY or Professional?

While laying turf is physically possible for a fit DIYer, the result often suffers from poor levelling, leading to a "lumpy" lawn that is difficult to mow. Professionals have access to heavy-duty rotavators and turf cutters that make the job more thorough. Furthermore, a professional designer understands Part M of the Building Regulations regarding access and SUDS (Sustainable Drainage Systems) to prevent garden flooding.

Professional turfing is 90% preparation and 10% laying. If the ground isn't perfectly level and nutrient-rich, even the most expensive turf will fail within a season.

Choosing the Right Tradesperson

• Check if they are members of the British Association of Landscape Industries (BALI) or the Association of Professional Landscapers (APL).
• Ask where they source their turf; it should be fresh-cut (ideally within 24 hours of delivery) and from a reputable grower.
• Look for a portfolio of "settled" jobs—lawns that are 1-2 years old, not just freshly laid photos.
• Questions to ask: "How do you plan to improve the drainage?", "Is waste removal included in the quote?", and "What aftercare support do you provide if the turf doesn't take?"

UK Regulations

• Planning Permission: Generally not required for soft landscaping (lawns/plants), but may be needed for significant changes in ground levels or new walls over 1m high near a road.
• SUDS: New regulations encourage permeable surfaces. A lawn is naturally compliant, but any accompanying hard standing (patios) must drain into the lawn or a soakaway.
• TPOs: Always check if any trees in your garden are subject to a Tree Preservation Order before designing a new layout.

Common Problems

• Soil Compaction: Laying turf on hard, un-rotavated ground leads to shallow roots and a lawn that dies during the first dry spell.
• Gapping: If turf rolls aren't "butted" together tightly or are allowed to dry out, they shrink, leaving ugly brown gaps.
• Poor Drainage: Failing to address "boggy" spots before turfing results in moss takeover and a lawn that is unusable for half the year.
• Incorrect Species: Using "stadium grade" rye grass in a heavily shaded garden will result in the lawn thinning out within months.

Frequently Asked Questions

When is the best time of year to lay turf in the UK?

Spring (March-May) and Autumn (September-November) are ideal. The soil is warm and there is usually enough rainfall to help the roots establish without the extreme heat of summer or the frost of winter.

How much should I water my new lawn?

You should water it every evening for the first 14 days, unless there is heavy rain. Ensure the water soaks through the turf into the soil beneath—check this by gently lifting a corner of a roll.

Can I lay turf over my old lawn?

No. This is a common mistake that leads to failure. The old grass will rot down, creating an unstable base and preventing the new roots from reaching the soil. The old turf must always be removed or dug in.

Why is my new turf turning yellow?

This is usually a sign of "stress," most commonly caused by lack of water. However, it can also be a sign of nitrogen deficiency or poor soil contact. If it happens within days of laying, contact your landscaper immediately.

Is artificial grass cheaper than real turf?

No. The initial installation cost of artificial grass is significantly higher (often £60-£100 per m2) due to the extensive sub-base preparation required. Real turf is much cheaper upfront but requires ongoing maintenance.