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Strip old paint from doors.

Chemical or heat-gun strip of multi-layer paint — restores period door to bare timber, ready for re-finish.

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Raised Grain

Chemical dipping can make the wood surface feel "furry." This requires professional sanding to restore a smooth finish.

Salt Bloom

If caustic chemicals aren't neutralised, white salts can push through the new finish months later.

Warping

Excessive moisture during the stripping or drying process can cause old timber doors to twist or bow.

Veneer Damage

Many "solid" looking doors are actually thin veneers over a pine core; aggressive stripping can destroy the veneer entirely.

Costs & timeline

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Indicative UK ranges and what affects price.

Cost range

By job type

Inc. VAT · 2026
Source: NMT quotes
Dip and Strip (Off-site)Per door. Often excludes collection/delivery.
£45–£95
Hand Stripping (On-site)Per door. Highly dependent on paint layers.
£140–£300
Lead Paint SurchargeCovers specialist PPE and disposal.
£30–£60
Neutralising & SandingCrucial step before finishing.
£40–£75
Professional Wax/Oil FinishIncludes materials and 2-3 coats.
£60–£120
!

Quote spread is typically ± 18% — always get 3 quotes.

At a glance

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Whether you intend to reveal the natural grain for a waxed finish or simply want a smooth, clean base for a high-quality repaint, professional stripping is a transformative process. It removes years of unsightly build-up and can even resolve issues with doors sticking in their frames due to excessive paint thickness.

What Does the Work Involve?

  • Initial Assessment: The decorator identifies the wood type (solid vs. engineered) and tests for lead-based paint, which is common in pre-1960s UK homes.
  • Hardware Removal: All handles, hinges, locks, and escutcheons are removed to ensure a complete strip and prevent damage to the metalwork.
  • Method Selection: Choosing between "Dip and Strip" (off-site chemical tanks) or manual hand-stripping (on-site using heat guns or chemical peels).
  • The Stripping Process: Removal of all coatings down to the raw timber, including intricate mouldings and panels.
  • Neutralisation: If chemicals are used, the wood must be treated with a neutralising agent (like white spirit or a specific acid wash) to prevent future finish failure.
  • Sanding and Repair: Once dry, the door is sanded through various grits to smooth the grain; minor cracks or holes are filled with colour-matched wood filler.
  • Refinishing: Application of the chosen topcoat, such as beeswax, hard-wax oil, varnish, or a fresh primer and topcoat system.

Typical Costs

The cost of door stripping in the UK depends heavily on whether the doors are taken away to a stripping facility or worked on by hand in your home. Hand-stripping is significantly more expensive due to the intensive labour required.

Item Low £ High £ Notes
Dip and Strip (Off-site) £45 £95 Per door. Often excludes collection/delivery.
Hand Stripping (On-site) £140 £300 Per door. Highly dependent on paint layers.
Lead Paint Surcharge £30 £60 Covers specialist PPE and disposal.
Neutralising & Sanding £40 £75 Crucial step before finishing.
Professional Wax/Oil Finish £60 £120 Includes materials and 2-3 coats.
Pro Tip: If you choose "Dip and Strip," ensure the company uses a "cool" chemical tank. Traditional hot caustic tanks can dissolve the glues in modern or veneered doors, causing them to fall apart.

How Long Does It Take?

  • Off-site Dipping: Usually 3 to 7 working days, including the time required for the wood to dry out completely before re-hanging.
  • On-site Hand Stripping: 4 to 8 hours per door, depending on the number of layers and the complexity of the mouldings.
  • Drying Time: A dipped door may need 48 hours in a well-ventilated room before it is stable enough for sanding or oiling.
  • Full Restoration: For a standard set of 4 internal doors (strip, sand, and wax), expect a professional to take 3 to 4 days of active labour.

DIY or Professional?

While DIY stripping is possible, it is incredibly messy and potentially hazardous. Old paint in UK homes frequently contains lead; heating this with a DIY heat gun or sanding it without industrial extraction can release toxic fumes and dust into your living space.

Professionals have access to industrial-grade chemical peels that are more effective than consumer-grade products. They also understand how to neutralise the wood correctly—failing to do this is the most common DIY mistake, leading to "white bloom" or paint peeling off within weeks. If your doors are high-value or period originals, professional expertise is essential to avoid scorching the wood or raising the grain excessively.

Choosing the Right Tradesperson

  • Check for Lead Awareness: Ask if they have experience handling lead-based paints and what dust extraction equipment they use.
  • Portfolio: Look for photos of "before and after" timber restoration, specifically focusing on the crispness of the mouldings.
  • Insurance: Ensure they have Public Liability insurance, especially if they are using heat guns or strong chemicals in your home.
  • Questions to Ask:
    • How do you prevent the wood grain from "furring" up?
    • What neutraliser do you use after the chemical strip?
    • Will you remove the glass panels or protect them during the process?
    • Do you include the cost of re-hanging the doors and adjusting them if they swell?

UK Regulations

  • Control of Lead at Work Regulations 2002: While primarily for workers, professionals should follow these guidelines to protect your household from lead contamination.
  • Waste Management: Chemical residues and lead-contaminated paint flakes are hazardous waste and must be disposed of according to local UK council regulations.
  • Part L (Conservation of Fuel and Power): If you are stripping an external door, consider that the process is an ideal time to upgrade weather seals to meet modern thermal standards.

Common Problems

  • Raised Grain: Chemical dipping can make the wood surface feel "furry." This requires professional sanding to restore a smooth finish.
  • Salt Bloom: If caustic chemicals aren't neutralised, white salts can push through the new finish months later.
  • Warping: Excessive moisture during the stripping or drying process can cause old timber doors to twist or bow.
  • Veneer Damage: Many "solid" looking doors are actually thin veneers over a pine core; aggressive stripping can destroy the veneer entirely.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can all doors be "dipped and stripped"?

No. Only solid timber doors (like Victorian pine) should be dipped. Engineered doors, plywood, or modern veneered doors will likely delaminate and fall apart in a chemical tank because the glues dissolve.

How do I know if my door paint contains lead?

If your home was built before the 1960s, there is a high probability of lead paint. You can buy simple swab test kits from UK hardware stores, or your decorator can perform a professional test before starting work.

Why has my door turned orange or dark after stripping?

This is often a reaction between the stripping chemicals and the tannins in the wood (especially common with Oak or Mahogany). A professional can use wood bleaches or specific neutralisers to restore the natural colour.

Will my doors shrink after being stripped?

The wood itself won't shrink significantly, but the removal of 5-10mm of accumulated paint layers can make the door feel loose in the frame. You may need to add slim "stopping" strips to the frame for a snug fit.

Is hand-stripping better than dipping?

Hand-stripping is gentler and keeps the door "dry," which prevents warping and grain-raising. However, it is much more expensive. Dipping is cost-effective for multiple internal pine doors where a perfect finish is less critical than a clean one.

This guide was written with AI assistance and is intended for general information only. Prices are estimates based on UK averages and may vary by region. Always get at least three quotes and consult a qualified professional before starting any work.

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