External woodwork painting

Regular maintenance through professional painting does more than improve kerb appeal; it prevents moisture from penetrating the wood grain. Neglecting these surfaces often leads to wet rot, which can result in structural failure and expensive joinery replacement costs.

What Does the Work Involve?

• Initial Inspection: Assessing the timber for signs of "soft spots" or wet rot that may require repair or replacement before painting begins.
• Surface Preparation: Scraping away flaking paint, sanding back to a sound surface, and degreasing to ensure the new coating adheres correctly.
• Repair and Filling: Applying high-quality exterior wood filler to cracks and holes, and raking out failed putty in window glazing.
• Priming: Applying a specialist wood primer to bare timber to seal the grain and prevent tannin staining.
• Undercoating and Topcoating: Applying multiple layers of exterior-grade paint (gloss, satin, or eggshell) designed to remain flexible as the wood expands and contracts.
• Site Protection: Masking glass, protecting masonry with drop cloths, and ensuring garden plants are covered or tied back.

Typical Costs

Prices in the UK are heavily influenced by the condition of the existing timber. If the wood has been neglected for over five years, the preparation time (sanding and filling) can double the labour cost compared to a simple "freshen up" coat.

Pro Tip: Always ask your decorator if their quote includes "burning off" old paint. If layers are too thick or failing, total removal is the only way to ensure a long-lasting finish.

How Long Does It Take?

• Single Front Door: 1 to 2 days (allowing for drying times between coats).
• Full Window Set (Average 3-bed): 4 to 7 days, depending on the number of opening casements.
• Complete Exterior Woodwork: 10 to 14 days, assuming fair weather and minimal rot repairs.
• Weather Contingency: Most UK decorators will add 20% to the timeline to account for rain delays.

DIY or Professional?

While painting a ground-floor door is a manageable DIY task, high-level work on fascias or dormer windows carries significant safety risks. Professional decorators have the correct ladders, towers, and insurance to work at height safely.

Furthermore, exterior painting is 90% preparation. Professionals use industrial sanders with dust extraction and high-performance trade paints that last significantly longer than retail "DIY" brands. If your home was built before the 1960s, a professional is also trained to handle potential lead-based paint safely.

Choosing the Right Tradesperson

• Check Specialisms: Look for decorators who specifically mention exterior joinery or "timber resin repairs" (like the Window Care Systems).
• Insurance: Ensure they have Public Liability insurance that covers "working at height."
• Red Flags: Avoid anyone who offers to "paint over" rot or suggests painting in the rain or high humidity.
• Questions to Ask:
  • What moisture meter reading do you look for before applying paint?
  • Do you use traditional oil-based paints or modern water-borne systems?
  • How do you handle repairs if you find significant rot once you start sanding?
  • Can you provide references for exterior work completed at least three years ago?

UK Regulations

• Conservation Areas: If you live in a Conservation Area, you may be restricted on the colours you can use for exterior woodwork.
• Listed Buildings: Changing the paint type (e.g., switching from lime-wash or linseed oil to modern gloss) on a Grade II listed building often requires Listed Building Consent.
• Lead Paint: The Control of Lead at Work Regulations 2002 must be followed if stripping paint from pre-1960s properties.
• Health and Safety: Work at Height Regulations 2005 dictate that tradespeople must use appropriate equipment (scaffolding or towers) for any prolonged work.

Common Problems

• Trapped Moisture: Painting onto damp wood is the most common cause of failure; the paint will blister and peel within months as the moisture tries to escape.
• Poor Putty Maintenance: If window putty is cracked, water sits in the rebate and rots the sash from the inside out.
• Incompatible Paints: Applying modern water-based paints over old, chalky oil-based gloss without the correct "bridge" primer leads to "alligatoring" and peeling.
• Ignoring the "End Grain": Failing to seal the bottom of door frames or the ends of windowsills allows water to wick up into the timber.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the best time of year to paint exterior wood in the UK?

The ideal window is between late April and September. You need a dry surface and temperatures consistently above 10°C for the paint to cure correctly. Avoid the height of summer for south-facing elevations, as the sun can dry the paint too quickly, causing brush marks.

How often should I repaint my external woodwork?

Typically every 3 to 5 years for south and west-facing elevations, which take the brunt of the sun and rain. North-facing or sheltered areas may last 7 to 8 years. If you see fine cracks or the gloss finish has turned "matt," it is time to repaint.

Should I use water-based or oil-based exterior paint?

Modern water-based "microporous" paints are often superior now. They stay flexible, don't yellow, and allow the wood to "breathe," whereas traditional oil-based gloss can become brittle and crack over time, trapping moisture underneath.

Do I really need scaffolding for my second-floor windows?

For simple inspections, a ladder may suffice. However, for thorough preparation and painting, a stable platform like a tower or scaffold is required by health and safety guidelines to ensure the decorator can work with both hands and produce a high-quality finish.

Can rotten windowsills be saved, or do they need replacing?

If the rot is localised, a decorator can use a two-part resin repair system. They will remove the soft wood, apply a hardener, and then use a structural timber resin. If more than 20-30% of the timber is soft, a joiner should replace the section before painting.