House exterior painting

For most UK homeowners, exterior painting is a major maintenance task that should be undertaken every 8 to 12 years. Whether you have a rendered finish, traditional brickwork, or timber cladding, the secret to a long-lasting finish lies almost entirely in the preparation work before a brush even touches the wall.

What Does the Work Involve?

• Surface Inspection: Assessing the condition of the render, masonry, and timber to identify cracks, blown plaster, or wet rot.
• Cleaning and Preparation: Removing moss, algae, and dirt using a pressure washer or stiff brush, followed by scraping away loose or flaking paint.
• Minor Repairs: Filling hairline cracks in render with exterior-grade filler and replacing or repairing damaged timber joinery.
• Masking and Protection: Covering windows, doors, downpipes, and garden foliage with heavy-duty plastic sheeting and professional masking tape.
• Priming and Stabilising: Applying a stabilising solution to "chalky" masonry or a dedicated primer to bare wood and metal surfaces.
• Topcoat Application: Applying at least two coats of high-quality masonry paint or exterior gloss/satinwood to ensure full coverage and durability.

Typical Costs

The cost of exterior painting varies significantly based on the size of your home, the condition of the existing surfaces, and whether scaffolding is required for safe access. Prices below include VAT and represent 2025/26 UK averages.

Factors that will push your quote toward the higher end include the need for specialist breathable paints (for lime render), extensive timber repairs, or difficult access over conservatories and sloping ground.

How Long Does It Take?

• Small Terraced House: 3–5 days (weather permitting).
• Average Semi-Detached: 5–8 days, including prep and two coats.
• Large Detached Property: 10–15 days, often requiring a team of two or more painters.
• Weather Contingency: Always allow for an extra 2–3 days in the schedule for rain delays, as masonry must be bone-dry before painting.

DIY or Professional?

While painting a ground-floor wall is a manageable DIY task, painting a whole house involves significant safety risks and technical challenges. Professionals have the equipment to work at height safely and the expertise to identify structural issues like "blown" render that a novice might miss.

If your home was built before 1960, there is a high probability of lead-based paint on exterior woodwork. Professionals are trained to test for and safely remove this without contaminating your garden or soil.

Choosing the Right Tradesperson

• Check Credentials: Look for membership in the Painting and Decorating Association (PDA) or TrustMark accreditation.
• Insurance: Ensure they hold valid Public Liability Insurance (minimum £2 million) specifically covering "work at height."
• Detailed Quotes: A professional quote should specify the brand of paint, the number of coats, and exactly what prep work is included.
• Red Flags: Be wary of anyone who claims they can paint in the rain or suggests skipping the primer on bare surfaces.

Questions to ask:

• Do you include the cost of scaffolding in your quote, or do I contract that separately?
• How do you handle "blown" render or rotten window sills if discovered during the job?
• What specific brand and line of masonry paint do you recommend for my property type?
• Can you provide references from local exterior jobs completed more than two years ago?

UK Regulations

• Working at Height: All contractors must comply with the Work at Height Regulations 2005. For most two-storey homes, professional scaffolding is preferred over ladders for safety and finish quality.
• Building Regulations: If you are stripping and replacing more than 25% of your home's external render, you may need to upgrade the wall's thermal insulation to meet Part L of the Building Regulations.
• Listed Buildings: If your property is Listed or in a Conservation Area, you may be restricted on paint colours and types (e.g., requiring breathable limewash).

Common Problems

• Painting Over Damp: Trapping moisture behind a new coat of paint will cause it to bubble and peel within months.
• Poor Surface Prep: Applying paint over chalky, dusty, or dirty masonry prevents proper adhesion, leading to "flaking."
• Wrong Paint Choice: Using standard masonry paint on a period property with lime render can cause structural damp issues by "suffocating" the walls.
• Direct Sunlight: Painting in the heat of a direct summer sun can cause the paint to dry too quickly, leading to visible brush marks and poor bonding.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the best time of year to paint a house exterior?

The ideal window in the UK is from late April to early October. You need dry conditions and temperatures consistently above 8°C. Avoid the peak of summer if possible, as very high temperatures can cause paint to dry too fast, resulting in a poor finish.

Do I really need scaffolding for a two-storey house?

While some painters work from ladders, scaffolding is safer and allows for a much higher quality of work. It provides a stable platform for meticulous prep work and ensures an even application of paint. Many insurance policies now require scaffolding for work above a certain height.

How many coats of paint are usually required?

A standard professional job requires one coat of primer or stabiliser (if needed) followed by two full topcoats. If you are making a dramatic colour change (e.g., dark grey to cream), a third coat may be necessary to achieve full opacity.

How do I know if my render is "blown"?

Gently tap the rendered surface with your knuckles. If it produces a hollow, "drum-like" sound, the render has detached from the brickwork behind it. These sections must be hacked off and repaired before painting, or the new paint will simply fall off with the render.

Can you paint over fletton or common bricks?

Yes, but it is a permanent decision. Once brickwork is painted, it is very difficult and expensive to revert. You must use a high-quality, breathable masonry paint to ensure moisture can still escape from the brickwork to prevent "spalling" (where the brick face shatters).