Restore wood surfaces.

For many homeowners, refinishing is a sustainable alternative to replacement. High-quality timber is increasingly expensive, so investing in the restoration of existing wood ensures your home retains its period charm and structural quality for decades to come.

What Does the Work Involve?

• Surface Assessment: Checking for rot, woodworm, structural integrity, and identifying the type of existing finish (lead paint, wax, or varnish).
• Stripping & Removal: Using heat guns, chemical strippers, or mechanical sanding to remove old layers of paint or grime.
• Timber Repairs: Filling cracks with wood-matched resin, replacing damaged sections (let-in repairs), and securing loose joints.
• Graduated Sanding: Progressing through grit levels (usually 40 to 120 or higher) to create a perfectly smooth, level surface.
• Neutralisation: Cleaning the wood after chemical stripping to ensure the new finish adheres correctly.
• Finishing: Applying multiple coats of oil, wax, lacquer, or varnish, with light de-nibbing (sanding) between coats for a professional sheen.

Typical Costs

Prices vary significantly based on the complexity of the item—stripping intricate spindle staircases is far more labour-intensive than flat flooring. These 2025/26 estimates include VAT and high-quality materials.

Cost Factors: The primary driver of cost is labour. Intricate carvings, the presence of lead-based paint (requiring specialist PPE and disposal), and the choice of premium finishes like hard-wax oils will increase the final quote.

How Long Does It Take?

• Single Internal Door: 1 to 2 days (allowing for drying times between coats).
• Standard Living Room Floor (20m²): 2 to 3 days from preparation to final seal.
• Complete Staircase: 5 to 10 days depending on the complexity of the balustrades.
• Drying Times: Most modern oils are touch-dry in 4–8 hours, but "full cure" (hardness) can take 3–7 days.

DIY or Professional?

While DIY sanding is possible for flat surfaces, it is physically demanding and creates significant dust. Professional decorators use "dustless" extraction systems that keep your home clean and provide a much flatter finish than hand-sanding.

Expert Tip: If your home was built before the 1960s, old paint likely contains lead. Professional restoration is recommended to ensure toxic dust is safely contained and disposed of according to UK health and safety standards.

Choosing the Right Tradesperson

• Specialism: Look for a painter and decorator who specifically lists "wood restoration" or "fine finishes" rather than just general painting.
• Equipment: Ask if they use HEPA-filtered dust extraction (e.g., Festool or Mirka systems) to protect your home.
• Portfolio: Request photos of previous timber restoration work, specifically close-ups of joints and grain.
• Questions to Ask:
  • How many coats of finish are included in the quote?
  • Do you use water-based or solvent-based lacquers?
  • How will you protect the surrounding areas from dust and chemical runoff?
  • Are you insured for the use of heat guns or chemical strippers?

UK Regulations

• Lead Paint Safety: Professionals must follow the Control of Lead at Work Regulations 2002 when stripping old coatings.
• Listed Buildings: If your property is Grade I or II listed, you may need Listed Building Consent to change the finish of original timber features.
• VOC Compliance: All finishes used must comply with UK Volatile Organic Compound (VOC) limits to ensure indoor air quality.

Common Problems

• "Sanding Marks": Circular scratches left by poor technique that only become visible once the stain or oil is applied.
• Incompatibility: Applying a water-based finish over an old wax or oil coating without proper stripping, leading to peeling.
• Bleed-through: Tannins in woods like Oak or Mahogany can "bleed" through light-coloured stains if not properly sealed.
• Dust Contamination: Wet finishes catching airborne dust, resulting in a "gritty" texture rather than a smooth surface.

Frequently Asked Questions