Bedroom ceiling plastering

In the UK, bedroom ceilings often face issues ranging from settlement cracks to sagging lath and plaster. Addressing these issues correctly ensures a safe, long-lasting surface that is ready for painting or wallpapering without the need for constant touch-ups.

What Does the Work Involve?

• Site Preparation: Removing furniture or covering it with heavy-duty plastic sheeting and protecting carpets with sticky-back plastic or drop cloths.
• Substrate Assessment: Checking for "blown" plaster, damp spots, or structural sagging that might require more than a simple skim.
• Preparation: Removing loose material, applying a grit-based bonding agent (like Blue Grit) to provide a "key," or installing new plasterboard over the existing ceiling (overboarding).
• Beading and Taping: Applying scrim tape to joints and cracks to prevent future movement and installing beads around any architectural features.
• Plaster Application: Applying a two-coat "skim" of finishing plaster (usually Multi-finish) to achieve a glass-smooth surface.
• Final Trowelling: Polishing the plaster as it sets to ensure there are no ridges or "fat" lines left behind.

Typical Costs

The cost of plastering a bedroom ceiling depends largely on the size of the room and whether the old ceiling needs to be removed or simply covered. Prices in London and the South East typically sit at the higher end of these estimates.

Factors affecting the price include the ceiling height (vaulted ceilings require scaffolding), the presence of decorative coving you wish to keep, and the number of light fittings or "cut-outs" required.

How Long Does It Take?

• Small Bedroom Skim: 4 to 6 hours. This can usually be completed in a single morning or afternoon session.
• Large Master Bedroom: 1 full day. This allows for prep, two coats of plaster, and the final polishing stages.
• Overboarding and Skimming: 1.5 to 2 days. The first day is spent fixing boards to joists, with the second day dedicated to plastering.
• Drying Time: 3 to 5 days. Plaster must be completely dry (turning from dark brown to a uniform pale pink) before any mist coat or paint is applied.

DIY or Professional?

Plastering is widely considered one of the most difficult DIY tasks to master. While a DIYer can often achieve a "passable" wall, ceilings are physically exhausting and require a specific technique to prevent the plaster from sagging or falling during application.

Professional plasterers have the muscle memory to achieve a perfectly flat, "glass-like" finish that is nearly impossible for an amateur to replicate.

If your bedroom ceiling contains Artex applied before the year 2000, it may contain asbestos. You should never sand or scrape old Artex yourself; a professional will know how to safely overboard or coat it to contain any risk.

Choosing the Right Tradesperson

• Check for Specialisms: Some plasterers specialise in modern dry-lining, while others are experts in traditional lime plaster for period UK homes.
• Insurance: Ensure they hold Public Liability Insurance (minimum £1 million) to cover any potential damage to your home or furniture.
• Portfolio: Ask for photos of "shining" (the final polished finish) and check for clean lines around coving and light roses.

Questions to ask your plasterer:

• Do you plan to scrape the Artex or overboard it?
• Is VAT included in your quote?
• How will you protect my carpets and built-in wardrobes?
• Will you remove the radiator or light fittings, or should I arrange an electrician/plumber?

UK Regulations

• Part L (Conservation of Fuel and Power): If you are stripping more than 50% of a ceiling that sits directly under an uninsulated roof space, you may be required to upgrade the thermal insulation to meet current Building Regulations.
• Asbestos Regulations: If asbestos is suspected in old Artex, it must be handled according to HSE guidelines. Most plasterers prefer to overboard Artex rather than disturb it.
• Part P (Electrical Safety): If the plasterer needs to move or disconnect spotlights or pendant lights, this work should ideally be handled or checked by a competent person under Part P regulations.

Common Problems

• Visible Board Joints: This happens when scrim tape isn't used or if the boards aren't fastened tightly to the joists, leading to "ghosting" lines through the paint.
• Blown Plaster: If the substrate wasn't primed correctly (e.g., over dusty old plaster), the new skim may bubble or peel away within weeks.
• Cracking at the Perimeter: Often caused by structural movement; using a flexible sealant or "caulk" at the wall-to-ceiling join after plastering can mitigate this.
• Efflorescence: White salty deposits appearing on the surface, usually caused by moisture trapped in the ceiling or a leak from the roof/bathroom above.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can you plaster over Artex?

Yes, but it requires preparation. The Artex must be sound, and any high points are usually scraped back before a bonding agent is applied, followed by two coats of plaster.

How long should I wait before painting a new ceiling?

You must wait until the plaster is a uniform pale pink color with no dark patches. This usually takes 3-7 days depending on the weather and ventilation. Always start with a "mist coat" (thinned-down emulsion).

What is overboarding?

Overboarding involves screwing new sheets of plasterboard directly into the wooden joists through the existing ceiling. It is often the safest and cleanest way to deal with cracked or Artex-covered ceilings.

Why do I have cracks appearing in my bedroom ceiling?

Minor "hairline" cracks are usually caused by seasonal temperature changes or slight building settlement. Larger cracks may indicate sagging laths or the need for new plasterboards.

Should I remove my coving before the plasterer arrives?

If you want to keep the coving, the plasterer can "skim up to" it, though this is fiddly. If you want a modern look, it is best to remove the coving before they start so they can plaster right to the edge of the wall.