Garden Fencing Installation Guide

Whether you are replacing storm-damaged panels or upgrading to contemporary slatted screens, understanding the process and costs helps you avoid "cowboy" contractors and ensures a long-lasting result.

What Does the Work Involve?

• Site Survey & Clearance: Measuring the boundary, identifying underground services, and removing old panels, concrete "footings," and obstructing vegetation.
• Setting the Line: Using string lines and levels to ensure the fence is perfectly straight and follows the natural contour of the land or is "stepped" on slopes.
• Excavation: Digging post holes to a minimum depth of 600mm (2ft) to ensure structural stability against wind loading.
• Post Installation: Setting timber or concrete posts into the ground using rapid-set concrete (Postcrete), ensuring they are plumb and correctly spaced.
• Gravel Boards: Fitting timber or concrete gravel boards at the base to prevent the main panels from touching the damp soil, significantly extending their lifespan.
• Panel Fixing: Securing the chosen panels (Lap, Closeboard, or Decorative) to the posts using galvanised nails or clips to prevent rusting.
• Finishing Touches: Adding capping rails to shed water and applying wood preservative to any cut ends to prevent rot.

Typical Costs

Costs vary based on your location in the UK and the ease of access to the garden. Removing old concrete "plugs" from previous posts is labour-intensive and may increase the total quote by 15-20%.

Always ensure your quote includes the disposal of old materials; a pile of rotting timber and heavy concrete can be expensive and difficult to move yourself.

How Long Does It Take?

• Small Repairs (1-3 panels): 3 to 5 hours, including post replacement.
• Standard Side Boundary (approx. 10-15m): 1 to 2 days for a two-person team.
• Full Garden Perimeter (30m+): 3 to 5 days, depending on ground conditions and clearance needs.
• Complex Scenarios: Allow an extra day for significant sloping ground, heavy root clearance, or installing integrated gates.

DIY or Professional?

While replacing a single "slot-in" panel is a simple DIY task, installing a full fence line is physically demanding and requires precision. Posts must be perfectly vertical and set at the correct depth; even a slight misalignment will prevent panels from fitting or cause the fence to lean within months.

Professional fencers have the specialist tools (augers, breakers, and heavy-duty nail guns) to complete the job in a fraction of the time. For heights over 2 metres, or 1 metre next to a highway, you may need to consult local planning authorities, which a professional can advise on.

Choosing the Right Tradesperson

• Check Qualifications: Look for tradespeople who specialise in "Fencing & Gates" rather than general handymen.
• Waste Licensing: Ensure they hold an Environment Agency Waste Carrier Licence to legally dispose of your old fence.
• Red Flags: Be wary of anyone suggesting shallow post holes (less than 600mm) or refusing to use gravel boards.
• Ask: "Do you use pressure-treated (UC4) timber for ground-contact posts?"
• Ask: "How do you handle changes in ground level—stepping or raking the panels?"
• Ask: "What is your policy if a post shifts or a panel bows within the first 12 months?"

UK Regulations

• Permitted Development: Generally, fences can be up to 2m high without planning permission, unless they border a public highway (usually limited to 1m).
• Listed Buildings/Conservation Areas: Stricter rules apply; always check with your local council before changing the style or height.
• Boundary Ownership: There is no legal "rule" about the "good side" facing the neighbour, but it is common courtesy (and often a covenant) to discuss plans first.
• Paperwork: You should receive a written quote, an invoice upon completion, and a waste transfer note if they remove your old fence.

Common Problems

• Wind Throw: Fences acting like sails and snapping at the base because posts were not deep enough or concrete was insufficient.
• Ground Rot: Timber panels touching the soil directly will rot within 3-5 years; gravel boards are non-negotiable for longevity.
• Boundary Disputes: Installing a fence even a few inches into a neighbour's land can lead to expensive legal battles; always verify boundary lines using Title Deeds.
• Poor Drainage: Setting posts in "concrete buckets" that trap water against the wood, causing accelerated rot at the most vulnerable point.

Frequently Asked Questions

Do I own the fence on the left or the right?

There is no universal law. Check your property's Title Deeds or the "T" marks on your boundary plan; the stem of the T points towards the owner of the boundary.

Which is better: timber or concrete posts?

Concrete posts are rot-proof and last decades but are heavy and more expensive. Timber posts look more natural but require pressure treatment (UC4 grade) to last 10-15 years.

Can I put a 2-metre fence on top of a wall?

Usually, the 2-metre limit applies to the total height from the ground level on the highest side. If the total height exceeds 2m, you will likely need planning permission.

What is 'Closeboard' vs 'Lap' fencing?

Lap panels use horizontal overlapping slats and are budget-friendly. Closeboard (or featheredge) uses vertical overlapping boards and is much stronger and more wind-resistant.

How often should I treat my new fence?

Most modern fencing is pressure-treated, but applying a high-quality UV-resistant oil or stain every 2-3 years will prevent the wood from greying and cracking.