Refinish a chair.

In the UK, where damp climates can affect wood joints and central heating can dry out older finishes, a professional touch is often required to stabilise the furniture. This guide covers everything from the technical steps involved to the realistic costs of hiring a skilled furniture restorer in 2025.

What Does the Work Involve?

• Initial Assessment: Inspecting the frame for loose joints, "rocking," woodworm flight holes, and veneer damage.
• Disassembly: Carefully removing drop-in seats, stretchers, or decorative elements to ensure every surface is reachable.
• Stripping: Removing old varnish, wax, or paint using hand-sanding or chemical stripping agents tailored to the wood type.
• Structural Repairs: Re-gluing loose tenon joints with traditional animal glue or modern equivalents and replacing broken dowels.
• Surface Preparation: Progressive sanding to remove scratches and "raising the grain" to ensure a smooth final finish.
• Finishing: Applying stains, oils, waxes, or modern lacquers in multiple coats, with fine-sanding between each layer for a professional sheen.

Typical Costs

Prices vary based on the complexity of the chair's design—a simple Shaker-style chair is significantly cheaper to refinish than a heavily carved Chippendale reproduction. Labour typically accounts for 80% of the total quote.

Note: Specialist finishes like French Polishing or intricate paint effects (shabby chic or distressing) will sit at the higher end of these estimates. Reupholstery is almost always quoted as a separate service.

How Long Does It Take?

• Single Chair (Surface Refresh): 1–2 days, allowing for drying time between coats of oil or wax.
• Single Chair (Full Strip & Repair): 3–5 days, as glues need 24 hours to cure before sanding can begin.
• Set of 4–6 Dining Chairs: 7–10 working days, usually handled in a workshop environment to manage space and dust.
• Intricate Carvings: Adds 1–2 days per chair due to the manual labour required to strip and sand detailed crevices.

DIY or Professional?

Applying a fresh coat of wax to a well-maintained chair is a rewarding DIY task. However, if the chair requires chemical stripping, structural re-gluing, or has delicate veneers, a professional is essential. Amateurs often "sand through" thin veneers or use modern polyurethane over old wax, resulting in a finish that peels. Professionals also have access to industrial extraction for dust and controlled environments for a flawless, lint-free finish.

Expert Tip: If the chair is a genuine antique (pre-1920), DIY stripping can significantly reduce its market value. Always consult a restorer first.

Choosing the Right Tradesperson

• Check Specialisms: Some restorers focus on mid-century modern (teak/rosewood), while others specialise in traditional French Polishing.
• Portfolio: Ask for "before and after" photos of similar wood types to ensure they can match the grain and colour you desire.
• Workshop Standards: A clean, organised workshop is a good sign that your furniture won't be damaged while in their care.

Questions to ask:

• Are you a member of BAFRA (British Antique Furniture Restorers' Association)?
• Will you be using traditional finishes (like shellac) or modern durable lacquers?
• Is the cost of materials and consumables included in your quote?
• Do you provide a guarantee against joints failing again within the first year?

UK Regulations

• COSHH: Professionals must follow Control of Substances Hazardous to Health (COSHH) regulations when using chemical strippers or solvent-based finishes.
• Fire Safety: If they are also handling upholstery, materials must meet the Furniture and Furnishings (Fire Safety) Regulations 1988.
• Waste Disposal: Trade professionals must have a Waste Carrier Licence to legally dispose of old finishes and chemical residues.

Common Problems

• Sanding Through Veneer: Over-sanding can reveal the cheaper "base" wood beneath a thin decorative layer, which is very difficult to hide.
• Silicone Contamination: If you have used modern spray polishes (like Pledge) for years, the silicone can cause "fish-eyes" in a new professional finish.
• Incomplete Stripping: Old finish left in the grain can cause dark blotches when a new stain is applied.
• Poor Joint Prep: Applying new glue over old, crusty glue will result in a joint that fails almost immediately.

Frequently Asked Questions