Chair refinishing

In the UK, where damp climates can affect wood joints and central heating can dry out older finishes, a professional touch is often required to stabilise the furniture. This guide covers everything from the technical steps involved to the realistic costs of hiring a skilled furniture restorer in 2025.

What Does the Work Involve?

• Initial Assessment: Inspecting the frame for loose joints, "rocking," woodworm flight holes, and veneer damage.
• Disassembly: Carefully removing drop-in seats, stretchers, or decorative elements to ensure every surface is reachable.
• Stripping: Removing old varnish, wax, or paint using hand-sanding or chemical stripping agents tailored to the wood type.
• Structural Repairs: Re-gluing loose tenon joints with traditional animal glue or modern equivalents and replacing broken dowels.
• Surface Preparation: Progressive sanding to remove scratches and "raising the grain" to ensure a smooth final finish.
• Finishing: Applying stains, oils, waxes, or modern lacquers in multiple coats, with fine-sanding between each layer for a professional sheen.

Typical Costs

Prices vary based on the complexity of the chair's design—a simple Shaker-style chair is significantly cheaper to refinish than a heavily carved Chippendale reproduction. Labour typically accounts for 80% of the total quote.

Note: Specialist finishes like French Polishing or intricate paint effects (shabby chic or distressing) will sit at the higher end of these estimates. Reupholstery is almost always quoted as a separate service.

How Long Does It Take?

• Single Chair (Surface Refresh): 1–2 days, allowing for drying time between coats of oil or wax.
• Single Chair (Full Strip & Repair): 3–5 days, as glues need 24 hours to cure before sanding can begin.
• Set of 4–6 Dining Chairs: 7–10 working days, usually handled in a workshop environment to manage space and dust.
• Intricate Carvings: Adds 1–2 days per chair due to the manual labour required to strip and sand detailed crevices.

DIY or Professional?

Applying a fresh coat of wax to a well-maintained chair is a rewarding DIY task. However, if the chair requires chemical stripping, structural re-gluing, or has delicate veneers, a professional is essential. Amateurs often "sand through" thin veneers or use modern polyurethane over old wax, resulting in a finish that peels. Professionals also have access to industrial extraction for dust and controlled environments for a flawless, lint-free finish.

Expert Tip: If the chair is a genuine antique (pre-1920), DIY stripping can significantly reduce its market value. Always consult a restorer first.

Choosing the Right Tradesperson

• Check Specialisms: Some restorers focus on mid-century modern (teak/rosewood), while others specialise in traditional French Polishing.
• Portfolio: Ask for "before and after" photos of similar wood types to ensure they can match the grain and colour you desire.
• Workshop Standards: A clean, organised workshop is a good sign that your furniture won't be damaged while in their care.

Questions to ask:

• Are you a member of BAFRA (British Antique Furniture Restorers' Association)?
• Will you be using traditional finishes (like shellac) or modern durable lacquers?
• Is the cost of materials and consumables included in your quote?
• Do you provide a guarantee against joints failing again within the first year?

UK Regulations

• COSHH: Professionals must follow Control of Substances Hazardous to Health (COSHH) regulations when using chemical strippers or solvent-based finishes.
• Fire Safety: If they are also handling upholstery, materials must meet the Furniture and Furnishings (Fire Safety) Regulations 1988.
• Waste Disposal: Trade professionals must have a Waste Carrier Licence to legally dispose of old finishes and chemical residues.

Common Problems

• Sanding Through Veneer: Over-sanding can reveal the cheaper "base" wood beneath a thin decorative layer, which is very difficult to hide.
• Silicone Contamination: If you have used modern spray polishes (like Pledge) for years, the silicone can cause "fish-eyes" in a new professional finish.
• Incomplete Stripping: Old finish left in the grain can cause dark blotches when a new stain is applied.
• Poor Joint Prep: Applying new glue over old, crusty glue will result in a joint that fails almost immediately.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can you make my dark mahogany chairs look like light oak?

While you can lighten wood slightly through bleaching or "pickling," you cannot fundamentally change the grain pattern. It is usually better to work with the natural tone of the wood rather than fighting it.

Is it worth refinishing "cheap" modern chairs?

If the chairs are solid wood, refinishing is almost always better value than buying new. If they are made of MDF or particle board with a plastic laminate, they generally cannot be refinished.

How do I know if my chair has woodworm?

Look for small, neat round holes (1-2mm) and "frass" (fine sawdust) beneath the chair. A professional can treat the wood during the refinishing process to ensure the infestation is dead.

What is the difference between oil, wax, and lacquer?

Oil soaks in for a natural feel; wax provides a soft sheen but needs regular maintenance; lacquer creates a hard, durable "shell" that is best for high-traffic dining chairs.

Does refinishing include fixing a wobbly frame?

Most restorers will include basic joint tightening in their quote, but full "knock-down" repairs where the whole chair is taken apart are usually charged as an extra labour cost.