Refinish furniture.

A professional refinisher doesn't just apply a new coat of varnish; they understand the chemistry of old finishes and the biology of different wood species. Whether it is a mid-century sideboard or a Victorian heirloom, professional restoration preserves the integrity of the piece while ensuring it survives another generation of use.

What Does the Work Involve?

• Surface Assessment: Identifying the original finish (shellac, lacquer, or oil) and checking for structural issues like loose joints or woodworm.
• Stripping: Removing old layers of paint or varnish using specialist chemical strippers, heat guns, or careful mechanical sanding.
• Neutralising and Cleaning: Washing the timber to remove chemical residues, ensuring the new finish adheres perfectly to the grain.
• Timber Repairs: Filling deep gouges with colour-matched wax or wood filler, and reglueing loose veneers or "lifting" edges.
• Sanding: A multi-stage process using progressively finer grits to create a glass-smooth surface without rounding off sharp decorative edges.
• Staining: Applying pigments or dyes to even out the wood tone or change the colour while maintaining the visibility of the natural grain.
• Finishing: Applying multiple coats of protective sealant, such as hard-wax oil, polyurethane lacquer, or traditional French polish.
• Buffing and Hardware: A final light sand and polish between coats, followed by cleaning or replacing original brass or steel hardware.

Typical Costs

The cost of furniture refinishing is primarily driven by labour. Intricate carvings, multiple drawers, and the removal of modern "tough" finishes like polyurethane will increase the price significantly.

Prices include VAT and standard materials. Expect to pay a premium for specialist finishes like hand-applied French polish or high-gloss "piano" finishes, which require dozens of micro-layers.

How Long Does It Take?

• Small items (Chairs, Side Tables): 2–3 days. This allows for stripping, drying time, and at least two coats of finish.
• Medium items (Desks, Chests): 4–6 days. More surface area and internal sections require detailed attention.
• Large items (Dining Tables, Wardrobes): 7–10 days. Often involves off-site work in a controlled, dust-free environment.
• French Polishing: 2–3 weeks. This traditional method requires significant curing time between dozens of thin layers of shellac.

DIY or Professional?

While small projects like sanding a rustic pine stool are suitable for DIY, high-value or antique pieces should be left to professionals. DIYers often "sand through" thin veneers, causing irreparable damage to the piece's value. Professionals use industrial-grade dust extraction and HVLP (High Volume Low Pressure) spray systems that produce a finish impossible to replicate with a brush.

Professional Tip: If your furniture was made before 1960, it may have been finished with lead-based products or volatile nitrocellulose. Professionals are equipped to handle these hazardous materials safely under COSHH regulations.

Choosing the Right Tradesperson

• Check Specialisms: Some tradespeople specialise in modern spray finishes, while others focus on traditional hand-polishing and conservation.
• Look for Portfolios: Ask for "before and after" photos of similar wood species (e.g., oak, mahogany, or teak).
• Trade Bodies: Look for members of the British Antique Furniture Restorers' Association (BAFRA) for high-value antiques.
• Questions to Ask:
  • Will the work be done in my home or at your workshop?
  • How do you handle dust and fumes if working on-site?
  • Can you provide a sample of the proposed stain on a hidden area of the wood?
  • Is insurance included for the transit of my furniture?

UK Regulations

• COSHH: The Control of Substances Hazardous to Health applies to the solvents, strippers, and finishes used in the process.
• Waste Disposal: Professional trades must have a waste carrier's licence to dispose of chemical residues and old finishes legally.
• Fire Safety: If the refinisher is also reupholstering, all materials must comply with the Furniture and Furnishings (Fire Safety) Regulations 1988.
• Paperwork: Expect a detailed quote, a receipt of collection (if off-site), and a care sheet upon completion.

Common Problems

• Veneer Sand-through: Using an orbital sander too aggressively on modern furniture can reveal the chipboard underneath, which is very difficult to hide.
• Silicone Contamination: If you have used modern aerosol polishes (like Pledge) for years, the silicone can "pit" the new finish, creating "fish-eyes."
• Blotchy Staining: Softwoods like pine or cherry absorb stain unevenly; professionals use "wash coats" or conditioners to prevent this.
• Bleed-through: Old tannins or mahogany dyes can seep through new paint or light stains; a specialist primer or sealer is required to block this.

Frequently Asked Questions