Assess a window sill.

A professional window sill consultation identifies the extent of decay before it spreads to the main window frame or wall cavity. Whether you have traditional timber, Victorian stone, or modern uPVC, an expert assessment ensures you choose the most cost-effective long-term solution rather than a temporary patch.

What Does the Work Involve?

• Visual Inspection: Checking both internal and external sills for signs of soft wood, flaking masonry, or cracked seals.
• Probing and Testing: Using a moisture meter or probe to determine if rot is superficial or structural.
• Drip Groove Check: Ensuring the "throttle" or drip groove on the underside is clear to prevent water from running back into the wall.
• Masonry Assessment: Inspecting the surrounding pointing and brickwork for water ingress points.
• Safety Screening: Identifying potential hazards such as lead-based paint in older properties or asbestos in textured finishes.
• Reporting: Providing a detailed breakdown of whether a resin repair, a "splice" (partial replacement), or a full sill replacement is required.

Typical Costs

Prices vary significantly based on material choices; for example, a bespoke oak sill will cost considerably more than a standard softwood equivalent. Accessibility is the other major factor, as upper-floor repairs often require scaffolding or a mobile elevated work platform (MEWP) to comply with UK safety standards.

How Long Does It Take?

• Initial Consultation: 45 to 90 minutes per property.
• Minor Resin Repairs: 3 to 5 hours, including drying time between layers.
• Full Timber Replacement: 1 to 2 days per window, depending on the complexity of the jointing.
• Stone Sill Reconstruction: 2 to 4 days, allowing for curing times of specialist lime or cement mortars.

DIY or Professional?

Small surface cracks or minor paint peeling can be handled by a competent DIYer using a high-quality exterior wood filler. However, if the wood feels soft when pressed or the "drip" is no longer functioning, a professional joiner or surface specialist is essential.

Structural repairs to window sills often involve "making good" the surrounding masonry and ensuring a watertight seal; if done incorrectly by a DIYer, it can trap moisture inside the wall, leading to dry rot.

Professional surface repairers use industrial-grade resins that expand and contract with the window, whereas domestic fillers often crack after one winter. For stone sills, matching the original profile and colour requires a specialist stonemason to maintain the property's kerb appeal and value.

Choosing the Right Tradesperson

• Check Specialisms: Look for a joiner for timber sills or a stonemason/specialist repairer for masonry sills.
• Verify Insurance: Ensure they hold Public Liability insurance (minimum £1m-£2m) to cover any accidental damage to your property.
• Ask for Photos: Request "before and after" examples of previous sill repairs to check the quality of their finishing.
• Questions to ask:
  • Do you use a two-part epoxy resin or a standard wood filler?
  • Will you clear the drip groove to ensure water sheds correctly?
  • Is the timber you are using pre-treated or a durable hardwood like Sapele or Oak?
  • Does the quote include final painting and decorating, or just the repair?

UK Regulations

• Building Regulations (Part L): If you are replacing the entire window unit along with the sill, it must meet thermal efficiency standards and be signed off by FENSA or CERTASS.
• Listed Building Consent: If your home is Grade I or II listed, you usually cannot change the material or profile of the sill without local authority approval.
• Working at Height: Contractors must follow the Work at Height Regulations 2005, which may mandate scaffolding rather than ladders for certain tasks.
• Lead Paint Safety: Properties built before 1992 may have lead paint; contractors should follow HSE guidelines for safe removal and disposal.

Common Problems

• Blocked Drip Grooves: Paint or debris filling the groove on the underside of the sill, causing water to soak into the brickwork.
• "Patching" Wet Rot: Applying filler over damp wood without removing the rot first, which allows the decay to continue invisibly beneath the surface.
• Poor Sealant Choice: Using cheap interior silicone instead of high-modulus external sealant, leading to leaks within months.
• Incorrect Timber Grade: Using untreated pine for an external sill, which will likely rot again within 3-5 years in the UK climate.
• Ignoring the Cause: Repairing the sill but failing to fix a leaking gutter or cracked render that caused the rot in the first place.

Frequently Asked Questions