Close Board Fence Repair Guide

Repairing a close board fence promptly is far more cost-effective than a full replacement. Whether you are dealing with a leaning post after a winter storm or individual boards that have succumbed to wet rot, this guide outlines the costs, timelines, and professional standards you should expect for a high-quality repair.

What Does the Work Involve?

• Structural Assessment: Checking the stability of posts, the integrity of arris rails, and identifying "soft spots" caused by rot.
• Site Clearance: Trimming back overhanging vegetation and removing old fixings or debris from the fence line.
• Post Remediation: Excavating rotted timber posts and installing new pressure-treated timber or concrete replacements in fresh "post-crete."
• Rail and Board Replacement: Removing damaged feather edge boards or snapped arris rails and fitting new, matching components.
• Alignment and Levelling: Ensuring the fence line is perfectly straight and that gravel boards are level to prevent future moisture ingress.
• Fixing and Finishing: Using galvanised nails or screws to prevent rust streaks and applying a wood preservative to any cut ends.

Typical Costs

Several factors will influence your final quote, most notably the ground conditions. If a contractor has to hand-dig through heavy clay or remove large concrete "plugs" from previous repairs, labour time will increase significantly. Access is also key; if materials must be carried through a narrow terraced house, expect a higher price.

How Long Does It Take?

• Replacing 5-10 individual boards: 1 to 2 hours.
• Replacing a single snapped post: 2 to 4 hours (allowing for concrete to "bite").
• Repairing a full 3-metre bay (rails and boards): 3 to 5 hours.
• Multi-post replacement (3+ bays): 1 full working day.

DIY or Professional?

Replacing a few individual feather edge boards is a straightforward DIY task for anyone comfortable with a hammer and level. However, structural repairs—specifically replacing posts—are physically demanding and require precision. If a post is not set at the correct depth (usually 600mm/2ft) or isn't perfectly plumb, the entire fence line will eventually fail.

Professional Tip: Always check for underground services before digging. While fencing doesn't fall under Part P or Gas Safe regs, hitting a shallow water pipe or electric cable can be dangerous and expensive.

Choosing the Right Tradesperson

• Check Insurance: Ensure they hold valid Public Liability Insurance (minimum £1m-£2m).
• Material Quality: Ask if they use UC4-rated pressure-treated timber, which is specifically designed for ground contact.
• Waste Management: Confirm they have a Waste Carrier Licence if they are taking the old fence away.
• Red Flags: Be wary of anyone suggesting "spur" repairs (bolting a short post to a rotted one) as a permanent fix for a primary post.

Questions to ask:

• "Will you use galvanised fixings to prevent rust staining?"
• "How deep do you set your posts in the ground?"
• "Do you offer a guarantee on the timber against rot?"

UK Regulations

• Planning Permission: Generally not required for repairs, provided the fence is not over 2 metres high (or 1 metre if adjacent to a highway).
• Boundary Ownership: Check your property deeds for "T-marks" to confirm you are responsible for the repair.
• The Party Wall Act: While rare for simple fencing, if you are digging foundations near a neighbour's structure, you may need to inform them.
• BS 1722: This is the British Standard for fencing; professional contractors should work to these specifications for spacing and depth.

Common Problems

• Rust Streaks: Caused by using standard steel nails instead of galvanised or stainless steel; these will ruin the look of the wood within one winter.
• Shallow Posts: If posts aren't deep enough, the wind "sail" effect on close board fencing will pull them out of the ground.
• Lack of Gravel Boards: If the vertical boards touch the soil directly, they will wick up moisture and rot prematurely.
• Poor Alignment: Failing to use a string line during repair results in a "wavy" fence that is structurally weaker.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I just replace the rotted bottom of a post?

You can use a "repair spur" (a short concrete post bolted to the side), but this is usually a temporary fix. For long-term stability, it is always better to replace the entire post.

Who owns the 'good' side of the fence?

In the UK, there is no legal rule saying you must have the 'good' side facing your neighbour. However, traditionally, the posts are on the owner's side, and the smooth face points outwards.

Should I choose timber or concrete posts?

Concrete posts last longer and won't rot, making them better for damp areas. Timber posts look more natural and are easier to fix rails to, but they eventually require replacement.

When is the best time of year for fence repairs?

Late autumn or early spring is ideal. The ground is usually soft enough for digging, and you avoid the "emergency" premium prices that contractors charge immediately after major winter storms.

Do I need to treat the new boards immediately?

Most new boards come pressure-treated (green or brown tint). You should wait a few months for the timber to "weather" and dry out before applying your own stain or oil.