Repair a close-board fence.

Repairing a close board fence promptly is far more cost-effective than a full replacement. Whether you are dealing with a leaning post after a winter storm or individual boards that have succumbed to wet rot, this guide outlines the costs, timelines, and professional standards you should expect for a high-quality repair.

What Does the Work Involve?

• Structural Assessment: Checking the stability of posts, the integrity of arris rails, and identifying "soft spots" caused by rot.
• Site Clearance: Trimming back overhanging vegetation and removing old fixings or debris from the fence line.
• Post Remediation: Excavating rotted timber posts and installing new pressure-treated timber or concrete replacements in fresh "post-crete."
• Rail and Board Replacement: Removing damaged feather edge boards or snapped arris rails and fitting new, matching components.
• Alignment and Levelling: Ensuring the fence line is perfectly straight and that gravel boards are level to prevent future moisture ingress.
• Fixing and Finishing: Using galvanised nails or screws to prevent rust streaks and applying a wood preservative to any cut ends.

Typical Costs

Several factors will influence your final quote, most notably the ground conditions. If a contractor has to hand-dig through heavy clay or remove large concrete "plugs" from previous repairs, labour time will increase significantly. Access is also key; if materials must be carried through a narrow terraced house, expect a higher price.

How Long Does It Take?

• Replacing 5-10 individual boards: 1 to 2 hours.
• Replacing a single snapped post: 2 to 4 hours (allowing for concrete to "bite").
• Repairing a full 3-metre bay (rails and boards): 3 to 5 hours.
• Multi-post replacement (3+ bays): 1 full working day.

DIY or Professional?

Replacing a few individual feather edge boards is a straightforward DIY task for anyone comfortable with a hammer and level. However, structural repairs—specifically replacing posts—are physically demanding and require precision. If a post is not set at the correct depth (usually 600mm/2ft) or isn't perfectly plumb, the entire fence line will eventually fail.

Professional Tip: Always check for underground services before digging. While fencing doesn't fall under Part P or Gas Safe regs, hitting a shallow water pipe or electric cable can be dangerous and expensive.

Choosing the Right Tradesperson

• Check Insurance: Ensure they hold valid Public Liability Insurance (minimum £1m-£2m).
• Material Quality: Ask if they use UC4-rated pressure-treated timber, which is specifically designed for ground contact.
• Waste Management: Confirm they have a Waste Carrier Licence if they are taking the old fence away.
• Red Flags: Be wary of anyone suggesting "spur" repairs (bolting a short post to a rotted one) as a permanent fix for a primary post.

Questions to ask:

• "Will you use galvanised fixings to prevent rust staining?"
• "How deep do you set your posts in the ground?"
• "Do you offer a guarantee on the timber against rot?"

UK Regulations

• Planning Permission: Generally not required for repairs, provided the fence is not over 2 metres high (or 1 metre if adjacent to a highway).
• Boundary Ownership: Check your property deeds for "T-marks" to confirm you are responsible for the repair.
• The Party Wall Act: While rare for simple fencing, if you are digging foundations near a neighbour's structure, you may need to inform them.
• BS 1722: This is the British Standard for fencing; professional contractors should work to these specifications for spacing and depth.

Common Problems

• Rust Streaks: Caused by using standard steel nails instead of galvanised or stainless steel; these will ruin the look of the wood within one winter.
• Shallow Posts: If posts aren't deep enough, the wind "sail" effect on close board fencing will pull them out of the ground.
• Lack of Gravel Boards: If the vertical boards touch the soil directly, they will wick up moisture and rot prematurely.
• Poor Alignment: Failing to use a string line during repair results in a "wavy" fence that is structurally weaker.

Frequently Asked Questions