Panel Fencing Installation Guide

A well-installed fence does more than just mark a line; it adds significant kerb appeal and can even increase your property value. However, the longevity of your fence depends entirely on the quality of the installation and the materials chosen to withstand the unpredictable British weather.

What Does the Work Involve?

• Site Survey and Marking: Measuring the boundary and marking post positions to ensure even panel spacing.
• Clearance: Removing old fencing, debris, and any vegetation that obstructs the new line.
• Post Hole Digging: Excavating holes to a depth of at least 600mm (2ft) to ensure structural stability.
• Post Installation: Setting timber or concrete posts in "Postcrete" or a similar rapid-setting concrete mix.
• Gravel Board Fitting: Installing timber or concrete gravel boards to prevent the main panels from touching the damp ground.
• Panel Securing: Sliding panels into slotted posts or nailing them to timber posts using galvanised brackets.
• Finishing: Adding post caps to prevent water ingress and applying wood preservative if required.

Typical Costs

Prices vary based on the type of panel (lap, closeboard, or decorative) and the choice between timber and concrete posts. The following figures include materials, labour, and VAT at 20%.

Factors that increase the price include steep slopes requiring "stepping," exceptionally hard or stony ground, and the need to remove significant amounts of ivy or old concrete footings.

Always confirm if your quote includes the removal and legal disposal of your old fencing, as skip hire or waste transfer fees can be a significant hidden cost.

How Long Does It Take?

• Minor Repairs: 2–4 hours to replace a single post or a couple of storm-damaged panels.
• Small Garden (under 10m): 1 day to clear the site and install a new run.
• Medium/Large Garden (20m+): 2–3 days, depending on ground conditions and access.
• Postcrete Setting: While the fence is structural within 20 minutes, the concrete takes 24 hours to fully cure.

DIY or Professional?

While a basic panel replacement is a manageable DIY task, installing a full run of fencing is physically demanding and requires precision. If posts are not perfectly aligned and vertical, panels will not fit, or the fence will lean and eventually fail during high winds.

Professionals have the heavy-duty equipment needed to dig through roots and rubble. Furthermore, they understand the nuances of boundary law and can ensure your fence is compliant with local regulations, saving you from potential disputes with neighbours.

Choosing the Right Tradesperson

• Waste Carrier Licence: Ensure they are registered with the Environment Agency to dispose of your old fence legally.
• Insurance: Verify they have Public Liability Insurance (minimum £1 million).
• Portfolio: Ask for photos of recent work, specifically looking for straight lines and level post caps.
• Questions to ask:
  • Do you use pressure-treated (tanalised) timber?
  • How deep will the fence posts be set?
  • Will you use gravel boards to protect the panels from rot?
  • How do you handle slopes or uneven ground?

UK Regulations

• Height Restrictions: In most of the UK, you can install a fence up to 2 metres high without planning permission.
• Front Gardens: Fences adjacent to a highway (including footpaths) are usually limited to 1 metre in height.
• Listed Buildings: If your property is listed or in a Conservation Area, you must check with the local planning office before making changes.
• Boundary Ownership: Check your property deeds (the "T-marks") to confirm which boundary you are responsible for maintaining.

Common Problems

• Shallow Post Holes: If posts aren't deep enough, the wind will act as a sail and pull the fence over. Holes should be at least 1/3 of the post's total height.
• No Gravel Boards: Placing timber panels directly on soil leads to rapid rot. Always use a concrete or pressure-treated timber gravel board.
• Poor Drainage: Concrete footings should be finished with a slight "weathering" slope at the top to shed water away from the timber post.
• Insecure Fixings: Using non-galvanised nails or screws will lead to rust streaks and eventual structural failure.

Frequently Asked Questions

Do I need my neighbour's permission to replace a fence?

If the fence is on your land and within height limits, you don't legally need permission, but it is common courtesy to inform them. If the fence is shared or on the boundary line, you must reach an agreement before work begins.

Which is better: timber or concrete posts?

Concrete posts are more expensive but won't rot and can last 20+ years. Timber posts look more natural but are prone to ground-level rot, even when pressure-treated, typically lasting 10-15 years.

What is the difference between Lap and Closeboard panels?

Lap panels use horizontal slats and are the cheaper, lighter option. Closeboard (or featheredge) panels use vertical, overlapping slats and are much stronger and more resistant to wind damage.

Can I paint or stain my new fence immediately?

If the timber is "green" from pressure treatment, it is best to wait 2-3 months for it to dry out fully before applying a DIY stain or paint to ensure it adheres properly.

What should I do if my garden is on a slope?

Fences on slopes are usually "stepped." This means the panels remain level, but each subsequent panel is set slightly lower or higher than the last, creating a staggered effect. The gaps underneath are filled with custom-cut gravel boards.