Install cavity wall insulation.

Most UK properties built between 1920 and 1990 were designed with a cavity that was originally left empty. Filling this void creates a thermal barrier, making your home easier to heat in winter and cooler in summer while reducing your carbon footprint.

What Does the Work Involve?

• Pre-installation Survey: A technician uses a borescope (a small camera inserted into the wall) to check the cavity is clear of debris and suitable for insulation.
• Drilling: Small holes, usually around 22mm-25mm in diameter, are drilled into the mortar joints of the external walls in a specific pattern.
• Injection: The chosen material—typically bonded polystyrene beads or mineral wool—is blown into the cavity under pressure until it is completely filled.
• Sealing: The drill holes are filled with mortar that is colour-matched to your existing masonry to ensure a discreet finish.
• Ventilation Check: The installer ensures that existing air bricks and combustion air vents (for boilers or fires) are not blocked during the process.

Typical Costs

Prices vary based on the size of your property and the type of material used. Bonded beads are generally more expensive than mineral wool but offer superior thermal performance and moisture resistance.

Costs are influenced by property height (scaffolding requirements), the width of the cavity, and your geographical location. Prices listed include VAT at the standard rate, though some energy-saving measures may qualify for 0% VAT under current UK government incentives.

How Long Does It Take?

• Small Flat or Terrace: 2–3 hours.
• Standard Semi-Detached: 3–5 hours.
• Large Detached Property: 1 full day.
• Survey & Prep: Usually completed 1–2 weeks before the actual installation date.

DIY or Professional?

Cavity wall insulation must be installed by a professional. It requires specialist blowing equipment and a technical understanding of building physics to prevent future damp issues.

Attempting to fill a cavity yourself can lead to "bridging," where moisture travels from the outer leaf to the inner leaf, causing severe rising or penetrating damp that is incredibly expensive to rectify.

Furthermore, without a professional installation, you will not receive a CIGA (Cavity Insulation Guarantee Agency) certificate, which is essential when selling your home.

Choosing the Right Tradesperson

• Accreditations: Ensure they are registered with the National Insulation Association (NIA) or the Cavity Insulation Guarantee Agency (CIGA).
• TrustMark: Look for the government-endorsed TrustMark quality scheme logo.
• Equipment: Ask if they use a calibrated injection machine to ensure the correct density of material.
• Questions to Ask:
  • Will you provide a 25-year CIGA guarantee?
  • How will you ensure my sub-floor ventilation stays clear?
  • Do you colour-match the mortar for the drill holes?
  • Is my property in a "high exposure" zone for wind-driven rain?

UK Regulations

• Building Regulations (Part L): Installations must meet specific U-value targets for thermal resistance.
• CIGA Guarantee: This 25-year independent guarantee covers defects in materials and workmanship.
• Gas Safety: Installers must check that the insulation does not block any essential air supply to gas appliances.
• Paperwork: You should receive a compliance certificate and your 25-year guarantee document via post after the job is registered.

Common Problems

• Damp and Mould: This usually occurs if the cavity was already full of debris (rubble) or if the property is in an area of extreme wind-driven rain.
• Incomplete Fill: If the drill pattern is too sparse, "cold spots" can form, leading to localised condensation.
• Blocked Vents: Failure to sleeve air bricks can lead to poor sub-floor ventilation and eventual dry rot in timber floors.
• Messy Finish: Poorly matched mortar can leave the house looking like it has "measles" with visible drill spots.

Frequently Asked Questions