Door Installation and Replacement Services

Poorly fitted doors lead to heat loss, security vulnerabilities, and annoying issues like sticking or "creeping" (where a door swings open on its own). This guide covers everything from simple internal door swaps to complex external installations involving new frames and smart security hardware.

What Does the Work Involve?

• Site Survey: Precise measurements of the existing opening, checking for level floors and plumb walls.
• Removal: Careful extraction of the old door and hardware, and if necessary, the removal of the existing frame.
• Frame Preparation: Repairing or replacing the timber frame, installing thresholds, and ensuring the opening is structurally sound.
• Door Trimming: Scribing and planing the new door to fit the specific nuances of your doorway (essential in older UK properties).
• Hardware Fitting: Cutting rebates for hinges, installing mortice locks, latches, handles, and letterplates.
• Hanging and Alignment: Mounting the door and making micro-adjustments to ensure a consistent 2-3mm gap around the perimeter.
• Finishing: Applying weather-stripping for external doors, architrave fitting, and sealant application.

Typical Costs

Prices vary significantly based on the material (uPVC vs. Composite vs. Solid Timber) and whether you are replacing the frame. All prices below include professional labour and VAT.

Labour costs typically range from £80 to £150 per door for internal swaps, while external door installations usually command a higher day rate due to the technical requirements for weatherproofing and security.

How Long Does It Take?

• Simple Internal Swap: 1–2 hours (using existing frame and hinges).
• New Internal Door & Frame: 3–5 hours (includes architrave and finishing).
• Standard External Door: 4–6 hours (removal of old unit and full installation).
• Bifold or French Doors: 1 full day (requires two people for heavy glass units).
• Whole House Refresh (8-10 doors): 2–3 days for a single joiner.

DIY or Professional?

Hanging a door is a classic "deceptively difficult" task. While a confident DIYer can swap a lightweight internal door, external doors should almost always be handled by professionals. External installations must be perfectly level to ensure the multi-point locking system engages correctly and the weather seals remain watertight.

Note: Replacing an external door is "notifiable work" under UK Building Regulations unless you use a FENSA or CERTASS registered installer who can self-certify the work.

Choosing the Right Tradesperson

• Check Qualifications: Look for NVQ Level 2/3 in Site Carpentry or Joinery.
• Trade Bodies: For external doors, look for FENSA, CERTASS, or Checkatrade vetted members.
• Insurance: Ensure they have Public Liability insurance (minimum £1m-£2m).
• Red Flags: Quotes that are significantly lower than others (often indicates poor quality hardware) or refusal to provide a FENSA certificate for external work.

Questions to ask:

• Does the quote include the disposal of my old doors?
• Will you install intumescent strips if these are fire doors?
• Are the hinges and locks included in the price, and are they "British Standard" (BS 3621)?
• Do you provide a guarantee on the door's alignment for the first 12 months?

UK Regulations

• Part L (Conservation of Fuel and Power): New external doors must meet minimum "U-values" (thermal efficiency standards).
• Part M (Access): In new builds or certain renovations, thresholds must allow for wheelchair access.
• Part Q (Security): External doors must meet PAS 24 standards to resist physical attack.
• Fire Safety: Doors leading to integral garages or in multi-storey hallways must be fire-rated (usually FD30) and fitted with self-closing devices.

Common Problems

• Binding or Rubbing: Usually caused by the door expanding in humid weather or the frame settling. A professional will "scribe" the door to account for this.
• "Creeping" Doors: If a door won't stay put, the hinges are likely out of vertical alignment (plumb).
• Draughts: Often the result of poor weather-stripping or a door that hasn't been pulled tight against the stops.
• Lock Misalignment: Especially common with uPVC and Composite doors; the door may need adjusting on its "3D hinges" to allow the lock to turn smoothly.

Frequently Asked Questions

Do I need to replace the frame when I get a new door?

Not always. For internal doors, you can usually keep the frame if it is square and in good condition. For external doors, it is highly recommended to replace the frame as a "set" to ensure maximum security and weatherproofing.

Can I trim a fire door if it's too long?

Only very slightly. Most fire doors have a "trimming allowance" (usually 3mm-10mm) specified by the manufacturer. Trimming more than this can compromise the door's structural integrity and void its fire rating.

What is a "pre-hung" door?

This is a door that comes already mounted into its frame with hinges attached. They are more expensive to buy but much faster and easier to install, ensuring a perfect factory-set alignment.

Why is my new composite door making "cracking" noises?

This is usually "thermal movement." As the door faces direct sunlight, it expands. Professional installers can adjust the hinges to allow for this natural movement without affecting the seal.

How do I know if I need a fire door?

In the UK, fire doors are typically required for doors leading into an integral garage, and in houses with three or more storeys (including loft conversions), every room off the stairwell must have a fire door.