Repair a uPVC window.

Repairing your windows is significantly more cost-effective than a full replacement. Addressing issues like draughts and stiff handles early prevents heat loss and ensures your home remains secure against intruders.

What Does the Work Involve?

• Full Inspection: Assessing the frame, sash, and hardware to identify the root cause of draughts, leaks, or sticking.
• Hardware Replacement: Removing and replacing worn friction stays (hinges), handles, and "espag" locking bars.
• Seal Restoration: Stripping out perished rubber gaskets and installing new, weather-tight seals.
• Glass Unit Replacement: Swapping out "misted" or cracked double-glazed units without removing the entire frame.
• Toe and Heeling: Re-aligning the glass unit within the sash to prevent the window from "dropping" and catching on the frame.
• Lubrication and Cleaning: Clearing debris from drainage channels and lubricating all moving parts with silicone-based sprays.

Typical Costs

Most window repair costs are driven by labour and the specific type of hardware required. Prices in 2025/26 include VAT and reflect standard UK rates.

Several factors influence the final price, including the height of the window (scaffolding or ladders may be needed), the age of the UPVC profile, and your location in the UK, with London and the SE typically seeing 20% higher labour rates.

How Long Does It Take?

• Handle or Lock Replacement: 30 to 45 minutes per window.
• Hinge (Friction Stay) Replacement: 1 hour per sash, usually requiring two people for larger windows.
• Misted Glass Replacement: 45 minutes, though the unit must be measured and ordered 3-5 days in advance.
• Full House Service: 4 to 6 hours to lubricate, adjust, and reseal all windows in a standard 3-bedroom semi.

DIY or Professional?

While a confident DIYer can replace a simple window handle, most UPVC repairs require professional intervention. Replacing hinges or glass units involves handling heavy, fragile materials at height, which poses a significant safety risk.

Furthermore, incorrect "toe and heeling" of a glass unit can cause the frame to warp or the lock to jam permanently. Professionals ensure the window meets Part L of the UK Building Regulations regarding thermal efficiency and maintain any existing warranties on the frames.

Pro Tip: Never use WD-40 on UPVC window tracks or locks; it attracts grit and can degrade the plastic. Use a dedicated silicone lubricant or "3-in-1" oil instead.

Choosing the Right Tradesperson

• Check Accreditations: Look for installers or repairers registered with FENSA, CERTASS, or the GGF (Glass and Glazing Federation).
• Check Reviews: Specifically look for feedback regarding "repair" work rather than just "installations," as the skill sets differ.
• Red Flags: Be wary of tradespeople who insist a whole new window is needed for a simple misted pane or a broken hinge.

Questions to ask your window specialist:

• Do you offer a guarantee on the replacement glass units (standard is usually 5-10 years)?
• Are the replacement hinges fire-escape (egress) compliant?
• Is the replacement hardware "Secured by Design" accredited?
• Does the quote include the disposal of old glass and metal parts?

UK Regulations

• Part L (Conservation of Fuel and Power): Replacement glass units should ideally match or exceed the thermal performance of the original unit.
• Part B (Fire Safety): If replacing hinges on a habitable room, they must often be "Egress" hinges to allow for emergency exit.
• Part K (Protection from Falling): Any glass replaced below 800mm from floor level (or 1500mm in doors) must be safety toughened glass.

Common Problems

• Misted Double Glazing: Caused by a breach in the unit's perimeter seal. The only fix is a new glass unit; "drilling and drying" is rarely a permanent solution.
• Dropped Sashes: The window catches on the bottom frame. This is usually fixed by adjusting the internal "packers" (toe and heeling) rather than the hinges.
• Whistling Draughts: Often caused by "flattened" gaskets or hinges that have pulled away from the frame. New hinges or thicker gaskets usually resolve this.
• Stiff Handles: Usually a sign that the internal gearbox is failing. Forcing the handle can snap the mechanism, locking the window shut permanently.

Frequently Asked Questions