Cupboard door installation

A professional carpenter ensures that every door sits perfectly flush, with consistent "reveals" (the gaps between doors) and smooth operation. This guide covers everything from labour rates to the technical pitfalls of DIY installation.

What Does the Work Involve?

• Site Survey: Measuring existing carcasses to ensure they are square and structurally sound enough to support new doors.
• Preparation: Removing old doors, hinges, and handles, followed by filling old screw holes if the new hardware layout differs.
• Hinge Boring: Using a Forstner bit or hinge jig to drill precise 35mm holes (or relevant sizes) into new door blanks.
• Trimming: Sizing bespoke or oversized doors to fit non-standard openings, often involving a track saw for a clean, splinter-free edge.
• Hanging and Leveling: Mounting the doors and using the three-way adjustment screws on modern hinges to align height, depth, and side-to-side positioning.
• Hardware Fitting: Measuring and drilling for handles or knobs, ensuring perfect symmetry across all units.
• Finishing Touches: Installing soft-close dampers, magnetic catches, or kickplates to complete the look.

Typical Costs

Prices vary significantly based on whether you are buying "off-the-shelf" standard sizes (like those from IKEA or Howdens) or commissioning bespoke joinery. All prices below include VAT and reflect current 2025/26 UK market averages.

Factors affecting the final bill include the number of "integrated" appliances (which require more complex door-on-door fitting) and whether the existing carcasses need reinforcing or levelling before the new doors can be hung.

How Long Does It Take?

• Single Cupboard/Wardrobe: 1–2 hours for a straightforward swap.
• Small Kitchen (8–10 doors): 1 full working day, including handle fitting and alignment.
• Large Kitchen or Full Bedroom Suite: 2–3 days, especially if end panels and plinths also need replacing.
• Bespoke Built-in Storage: 3–5 days, allowing time for on-site scribing and fine-tuning.

DIY or Professional?

If you are simply swapping "like-for-like" doors from the same manufacturer, DIY is achievable with a basic screwdriver. However, if you are changing hinge positions or working with expensive solid wood, a professional carpenter is a wise investment. Warning: Drilling hinge holes incorrectly can ruin a door instantly, and achieving perfectly straight lines across a long run of units is notoriously difficult for amateurs.

Note: If your cupboard installation involves moving electrical sockets or integrated gas hobs, you must hire a Part P certified electrician or a Gas Safe engineer to handle those specific elements.

Choosing the Right Tradesperson

• Check Qualifications: Look for a Level 2 or 3 City & Guilds Diploma in Site Carpentry or Architectural Joinery.
• Review Portfolios: Ask to see "close-up" photos of their previous work—specifically the gaps between doors, which should be uniform.
• Red Flags: Be wary of anyone who doesn't use a spirit level or suggests "eyeballing" the handle positions.

Questions to ask:

• Do you use a dust extraction system when trimming doors on-site?
• Is the disposal of my old doors included in the quote?
• Will you replace the hinge plates on the carcasses, or use the existing ones?
• Do you provide a guarantee against the doors dropping or sagging over the first 12 months?

UK Regulations

• Waste Duty of Care: Your tradesperson should have a waste carrier's licence if they are removing your old doors; otherwise, you are legally responsible for where that waste ends up.
• Building Regs (Part L): While doors themselves aren't regulated, if you are replacing kitchen doors, ensure you aren't blocking required ventilation for gas appliances.
• Fire Safety: If the cupboards are in a communal hallway or a high-rise flat, certain materials may need to meet specific fire-retardant standards.

Common Problems

• "Ghost Opening": Doors that swing open on their own usually mean the carcass is not level. A carpenter can often compensate for this via the hinges.
• Hinge "Blow-out": Using the wrong screw length or over-tightening into chipboard carcasses can strip the thread, requiring a "hinge repair plate."
• Mismatched Drillings: Different brands use different offsets for hinge holes; never assume a new door will fit old plates without checking measurements first.
• Handle Misalignment: Even a 2mm difference in handle height is visible to the naked eye. Always use a template or jig for drilling.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I just paint my old doors instead of replacing them?

Yes, but the success depends on the substrate. Solid wood or MDF can be sanded and painted, but "wrapped" vinyl doors often peel if painted. Replacement is usually more durable for high-traffic areas like kitchens.

What are 'standard' UK cupboard door sizes?

Most UK kitchen units follow 300mm, 400mm, 500mm, and 600mm widths. However, heights vary between brands (e.g., 715mm vs 720mm), so always measure the door, not the carcass.

Do I need to empty my cupboards before the carpenter arrives?

Yes. Access to the inside of the carcass is required to screw in hinge plates and handles. Emptying them also prevents dust from settling on your belongings.

What is a 'soft-close' upgrade?

It is a hydraulic mechanism built into the hinge or clipped onto it that prevents the door from slamming. Most modern hinges have this integrated as standard.

My carcasses are old; can they still take new doors?

As long as the chipboard isn't "blown" (swollen from water damage) or crumbling, they can usually be reused. If the screw holes are loose, a carpenter can use "G-plugs" or repair plates to provide a secure fixing.