Garden turf replacement

For UK homeowners, timing is key; while turf can be laid year-round, the mild, damp conditions of spring and autumn are ideal for root establishment. A professional installation ensures the ground is correctly levelled and the soil is nutrient-rich, preventing the common pitfalls of DIY attempts.

What Does the Work Involve?

• Site Assessment: Evaluating soil quality, drainage capacity, and sun exposure to choose the correct turf grade.
• Existing Lawn Removal: Stripping away old grass and weeds using a mechanical turf cutter to ensure a clean base.
• Soil Preparation: Rotovating or digging over the soil to a depth of 100-150mm to relieve compaction.
• Levelling and Grading: Adding high-quality screened topsoil to remove dips and ensure a perfectly flat or gently sloping surface.
• Firming and Raking: Treading the soil to remove air pockets and raking it to a fine "tilth" for maximum root contact.
• Laying the Turf: Spreading rolls in a brick-work pattern, ensuring tightly butted joints without overlapping.
• Finishing Touches: Trimming edges with a half-moon tool and a heavy soak to kickstart growth.

Typical Costs

The cost of turfing depends heavily on the quality of the turf selected and the amount of ground preparation required. Prices below include VAT and reflect 2025/26 UK averages for professional installation.

Factors that increase the price include poor garden access (requiring manual wheelbarrowing), significant levelling work, or the installation of modern drainage systems like French drains.

How Long Does It Take?

• Small Lawns (up to 30m²): Usually completed in 1 day by a two-person team.
• Medium Lawns (50m² – 80m²): 1 to 2 days, depending on the volume of old turf to be removed.
• Large Lawns (100m²+): 2 to 4 days, often requiring machinery like mini-diggers for preparation.
• Establishment Phase: 3 to 4 weeks before the first light mow and regular foot traffic.

DIY or Professional?

While laying turf rolls is physically possible for a fit DIYer, the preparation is often where projects fail. Professionals use mechanical turf cutters and rotovators that are expensive to hire and difficult to operate for beginners.

Proper levelling is an art; an amateur finish often results in a "bumpy" lawn that is difficult to mow and prone to puddling.

In the UK, there are no specific building regulations for domestic turfing, but you must ensure that raising the soil level does not bridge your home's Damp Proof Course (DPC). A professional landscaper will ensure the finished lawn sits at least 150mm below your DPC.

Choosing the Right Tradesperson

Look for landscapers who specialise in "soft landscaping" and have a portfolio of previous lawn installations. Check for membership in trade bodies like the British Association of Landscape Industries (BALI) or the Association of Professional Landscapers (APL).

• Check Qualifications: Ask if they hold a valid CSCS card and Public Liability Insurance (minimum £2 million).
• Red Flags: Be wary of anyone offering to lay new turf directly over old grass or someone who doesn't mention soil preparation.
• Questions to Ask:
  • Do you use a cultivated turf grown to TGA (Turfgrass Growers Association) standards?
  • How deep will you rotovate the existing soil?
  • Does the quote include the cost of skip hire and soil disposal?
  • What is your recommended watering schedule for the first fortnight?

Common Problems

• Gapping between rolls: Caused by turf shrinking as it dries out; always butt joints tightly and water immediately.
• Yellowing patches: Usually a sign of lack of water or air pockets beneath the turf where roots cannot reach the soil.
• Poor drainage: If the soil isn't aerated or improved with grit/sand before laying, the new turf may rot in wet UK winters.
• Bird damage: Crows and starlings may flip over new turf looking for grubs; ensure edges are well-tucked and the turf is firmed down.

Frequently Asked Questions

When is the best time of year to lay new turf?

Spring (March to May) and Autumn (September to November) are the best times. The weather is cool and moist, which helps the roots establish without the risk of the turf drying out in the summer heat or freezing in winter.

How soon can I walk on my new lawn?

You should avoid walking on new turf for at least 3 weeks. If you must walk on it to water, use wide wooden planks to distribute your weight and prevent indentations.

How much watering does new turf actually need?

In the first two weeks, you must water it every evening (and sometimes mornings in summer) until the water soaks through to the soil beneath. If the turf feels "spongy" to walk on, it is likely wet enough.

Why is my new turf turning brown at the edges?

This is a classic sign of dehydration. The edges are the first part to dry out and shrink. Increase your watering immediately, focusing specifically on the seams and perimeter.

Should I use grass seed instead of turf?

Seed is significantly cheaper but takes months to establish and is easily washed away by heavy UK rain or eaten by birds. Turf provides an "instant" lawn and can be used much sooner than a seeded area.